I got a young fancy budgie yesterday and ever since he or she got here it has been like hyper ventilating, pumping fast, opening mouth with the movement. He or she relaxed during the evening but started again. I am new at learning their temperament but it's beginning to worry me. He or she has a very big cage and everything they need to feel right at home, beautiful environment. I talked and try to socialize as well as keeping my distance for he or she to get adjusted until his or her friend join after the weekend of Thanksgiving. What should I do?
Answers:
I had the same exact problem with my cockatiel! It's mouth would open and shut like it was panting and it would do this more after flying around. I took it to a special bird vet and she wasn't too sure what the cause was. You'll be happy to know that my bird stopped doing this after getting more used to its new home. I left him alone and didn't handle him or talk to him for a week, I just worked around him so he would get used to my presence. I got 2 more birds eventually and this seemed to make him happier . I would try not to worry to much about this. I would continue keeping your distance but not try to socialize with it just yet. You might consider getting another budgie to keep it company, this might alleviate its anxiety. However, if it makes the situation worse, keep it in a nearby cage until its more adapted. I would not see a vet, there isn't much they can do. Again, try not to worry too much about this. My opinion is that it is just anxiety. You know how a dog pants when its stressed? You might want to try covering it at night so it doesn't get spooked (they can't see well in the dark at all). Good luck! I know you think your poor birdie is going to have a heart attack like I did but I think it'll stop this after a week or so.
Try putting a bath towel over the cage. The darkness should calm the budgie. If this carries on u should consult ur vet.
I would cover him / she with the night cover, leaving just - maybe a foot wide - opening. The whole thing may have been too much.
a budgie takes a minimum of six months to feel at home. so it is going to take along time for it to calm down especially if it is alone (meaning without another budgie). however it should only take about a week for it to stop acting like that. i have 4 and they all did that when i bought them
Sounds like heart arethmia. common in pet store bought birds. give it some time.make sure room is quiet. no loud noises, tv..music..ect.and just let it get used to cage and environment.if not better in a few days,,,,,,,call the pet store or call where you got it.
What you describe is not unusual for a new budgie. She sounds like she is stressing, which many do when first taken to a new home, with new people, etc. If you just give her some space, make sure no one else in the family is doing anything to scare her (i.e. sticking their fingers through the bars of the cage, etc), and slowly and quietly start trying to make friends with her after a few days have passed, she should begin to settle down.
It's important to remember that when a bird is "trapped" in a cage, anything new is VERY scary to them. She has to learn that you are going to love her and take good care of her, she doesn't automatically know that when she first comes home to join your family.
Good luck!
You should cover the cage for atleast 24 hours. Let them get used to the common noises in your home. When you approach their cage, do it slowly. Don't be sticking your hand in their cage to touch them right away either. Put your hand in the cage for a few seconds every so often- eventually the bird will think it's normal and pay even use it as a perch. It'll will take some time though (like weeks). My birds recognize that my hand means food and water. They don't fly around and go nuts anymore when I stick my hand in the cage to change their food.
If you're wanting another one (the friend joining them after Thanksgiving remark), I would wait until this one is used to you and your home. I got one in 2003 and I didn't get her a friend until this past spring.
If it helps, you can do what I did. I trained both my birds to be calm around me by turning them loose in the bathroom (closed off room with no fans, windows, or other animals). I would just sit there and let them wear themselves out from flying. Once they were good and tired, I'd gently pick them up and pet them softly. Also, you can put food in your hand and see if the bird will eat from it.
Also, when the bird is mature enough, you can tell male from femal by their cere (piece above the nose with their nostrils). If it turns blue or purple (or a mix), it's a male. If it is tan or brown, it's a female. Good luck!
I've got pictures of my parakeets on my 360 page.
Also, depending on the doors to this cage, you may need to use clothes pins to keep them shut. My bird figured out how to open all her doors (nice surprise when I got home form work). They're very smart.
well sometime it takes time to get accustomed to their new home talk to him softly let him know that ypu will not harm him sooner or later he will stop with the nonsense also if you offer it some treats he will start to gain some confiddence
If you just got "it" it is afraid. When you first bring one home, you should put them in a quiet room for a few days until they get the feel of the house. It is relaxed in the evening, probably 'cos it is darker and they are more relaxed in the dark. Don't put another bird in with it until it is completely relaxed with the house and you. Then introduce them by putting the cages next to each other. You have to be patient with birds, they are quite nervous. good luck
i would take the bird to the vet cause birds can die just like that.Some times when they do that they are having troulbe breathing. but im not sure its hard to say without seeing the bird. but i would take it to a bird vet to be on the safe side.
Monday, May 24, 2010
HELP, Am I making a mistake with Baby Cockatiel??
I bought a baby on October 3. He was about 2.5 weeks old when I brought him home. He is fully feathered and pecks at seed and eats pleanty of mellet spray. I offer carrots, corn, lettus etc.. He still screams to be hand fed. Is this normal? I am afraid he isnt getting water. He climbs, perches and flaps his wings happily. But ever time he seems me, he starts screatching for food. What do I do, is it to early to stop handfeeding? Am I spoiling him? How can I be sure he is eating and drinking properly? If I continue to fed at his becking call, will he eat on his own? If I discontinue food, will he starve or dehydrate? He is in a cage with my older tiel, he is doing great, seems to know how to climb all over the cage and reaches tall perches. I have fed Kaytee Exact. He appears healthy, I just dont want to loose him, or spoil him. Please any advice would be appreciated.
Answers:
I know a woman with a 10 year old cockatoo who will not eat anything that's not offered from between the woman's lips.
Cockatiels ought to be weaned by 8 weeks old. Here is an article that details timelines and tricks for weaning tiels.
http://www.birdsnways.com/wisdom/ww50eii.
Yes is it way to early to stop hand feeding. I feed mine every time they beg for food. Always offer regular food and as they eat more and more seed they will eventually stop begging. Mine usually at 6 -7 weeks old.
He will get the water he needs from the formula. But do keep a shallow dish of water so he can learn to drink from a dish.
Nothing wrong with spoiling your bird.
Where did you get a bird so young? And is this the first time you have hand-raised one? It sounds like it might be, and that you have plenty of unanswered questions. If you got it from a breeder, call them. They should have given you pretty explicit instructions on feeding.
If you got it from a pet store, you should still try to contact them, although some places may not be as reliable as they should be, especially if they are letting people take home such young birds, and not educating them.
You should contact an avian veterinarian in your area, for a better idea on how to hand raise a bird, and what is normal and healthy for your bird.
Try these sites as a basic guide on what you should be doing.
Good luck.
http://www.cockatiel.org/articles/handfe.
http://members.tripod.com/~cockatiels4u/.
My Mom raises Cockatiels and at one point we had over 60 birds in our home.no joke.
It's way way WAY too early to ween your Tiel! Keep seeds and water available at all times. When your tiel begs for the goods please provide and don't ween your tiel too early. Your baby still needs the nutrients and diet from the formula.
I remember my hand feeding dayz. My Mom made me care for the sick babes that the Momma bird woudn't go near. It was a fun hobby of mine and my Momma's business.
Your Birdie will know when he/she doesn't need the formula anymore. Usually around 8-10 weeks old.
You're going to have fun teaching your new birdie to whistle and talk! Start soon though with the training and they will never forget.
My first baby is about 14 years old now.Blind as a bat but still talks and whistles a storm! Incredible.Have a great time!
When I got my baby tiel, she used to do the same - scream and make all kinds of noises - and wouldn't shut up until I gave her pablum. She eventually ate on her own (seeds, fruits, veggies, etc) . so I think you are ok with feeding her until she eats seeds on her own. (If you can - try to get her on a pellet diet). I have been told by vets and breeders that tiels (and other birds?) can starve themselves . so make sure she is eating enough. I used to weigh mine when she was younger, to make sure she wasn't losing weight. However, my one before this never really liked being hand-fed and started eating seed right away.
Are you sure you don't mean 2.5 MONTHS old? A 2.5 WEEK old cannot eat on it's own, and does not have all it's feathers. My cockatiel babies fully weaned at around 11 weeks old. Please go to www.cockatielcottage.net for full info on feeding/handfeeding cockatiels.
. usually there are weened at 6 weeks .some birds you to feed until they ready. keep feeding him. if you know how to hand feed [really] you can give Little water in what you feed him with. i had a tiel i feed for 4 months he would not ween. it sound like he OK??? if you need anymore help e-mail me
he's not ready to wean yet, you need to be sure to feed him at least morning and night to make sure that he gets enough food
he will let you know when he gets tired of hand feeding
Yuor bird is too young to wean off of formula. Keep hand feeing it, and offer it some water from the feeding spoon.
The bird will be ready to start weaning in another 6 weeks or so.
Here is the link to a site that might be of some help for you.
http://www.angelfire.com/falcon/birdinfo.
Good luck.
At 5 weeks baby tire is still to young to eat completely on its own. Some of them that i have hand raised did not stop wanting hand feed until 8 weeks. You can tell when it is ready to stop hand feeding it will start to reject the hand feeding formula and stop altogether. You are doing a great job keep up the good work.
Answers:
I know a woman with a 10 year old cockatoo who will not eat anything that's not offered from between the woman's lips.
Cockatiels ought to be weaned by 8 weeks old. Here is an article that details timelines and tricks for weaning tiels.
http://www.birdsnways.com/wisdom/ww50eii.
Yes is it way to early to stop hand feeding. I feed mine every time they beg for food. Always offer regular food and as they eat more and more seed they will eventually stop begging. Mine usually at 6 -7 weeks old.
He will get the water he needs from the formula. But do keep a shallow dish of water so he can learn to drink from a dish.
Nothing wrong with spoiling your bird.
Where did you get a bird so young? And is this the first time you have hand-raised one? It sounds like it might be, and that you have plenty of unanswered questions. If you got it from a breeder, call them. They should have given you pretty explicit instructions on feeding.
If you got it from a pet store, you should still try to contact them, although some places may not be as reliable as they should be, especially if they are letting people take home such young birds, and not educating them.
You should contact an avian veterinarian in your area, for a better idea on how to hand raise a bird, and what is normal and healthy for your bird.
Try these sites as a basic guide on what you should be doing.
Good luck.
http://www.cockatiel.org/articles/handfe.
http://members.tripod.com/~cockatiels4u/.
My Mom raises Cockatiels and at one point we had over 60 birds in our home.no joke.
It's way way WAY too early to ween your Tiel! Keep seeds and water available at all times. When your tiel begs for the goods please provide and don't ween your tiel too early. Your baby still needs the nutrients and diet from the formula.
I remember my hand feeding dayz. My Mom made me care for the sick babes that the Momma bird woudn't go near. It was a fun hobby of mine and my Momma's business.
Your Birdie will know when he/she doesn't need the formula anymore. Usually around 8-10 weeks old.
You're going to have fun teaching your new birdie to whistle and talk! Start soon though with the training and they will never forget.
My first baby is about 14 years old now.Blind as a bat but still talks and whistles a storm! Incredible.Have a great time!
When I got my baby tiel, she used to do the same - scream and make all kinds of noises - and wouldn't shut up until I gave her pablum. She eventually ate on her own (seeds, fruits, veggies, etc) . so I think you are ok with feeding her until she eats seeds on her own. (If you can - try to get her on a pellet diet). I have been told by vets and breeders that tiels (and other birds?) can starve themselves . so make sure she is eating enough. I used to weigh mine when she was younger, to make sure she wasn't losing weight. However, my one before this never really liked being hand-fed and started eating seed right away.
Are you sure you don't mean 2.5 MONTHS old? A 2.5 WEEK old cannot eat on it's own, and does not have all it's feathers. My cockatiel babies fully weaned at around 11 weeks old. Please go to www.cockatielcottage.net for full info on feeding/handfeeding cockatiels.
. usually there are weened at 6 weeks .some birds you to feed until they ready. keep feeding him. if you know how to hand feed [really] you can give Little water in what you feed him with. i had a tiel i feed for 4 months he would not ween. it sound like he OK??? if you need anymore help e-mail me
he's not ready to wean yet, you need to be sure to feed him at least morning and night to make sure that he gets enough food
he will let you know when he gets tired of hand feeding
Yuor bird is too young to wean off of formula. Keep hand feeing it, and offer it some water from the feeding spoon.
The bird will be ready to start weaning in another 6 weeks or so.
Here is the link to a site that might be of some help for you.
http://www.angelfire.com/falcon/birdinfo.
Good luck.
At 5 weeks baby tire is still to young to eat completely on its own. Some of them that i have hand raised did not stop wanting hand feed until 8 weeks. You can tell when it is ready to stop hand feeding it will start to reject the hand feeding formula and stop altogether. You are doing a great job keep up the good work.
Help! plz! my parakeets not eating his food!?!?
I got a new parakeet just on monday, so like 5 days ago. I had regular bird seed food in his cage but he wouldn't eat it. So then we put some millet in too, and thats all he eats, he won't eat any of his regular food. I know millet is only supposed to be a treat but I am afraid if I take the millet out he won't eat anything. Please help, what should i do?
Answers:
I know this may sound weird, but make sure that he DOES have food in his bowl. Parakeets eat the middle of the seed, and leave the shells, and it looks like he's got plenty to eat, but all there is is shells.
Dump what you got in there, and give him new stuff. If all he eats is millet, he'll be fine, give him some time, he's just getting used to a new place too. If you still don't see him eat, try some other food (there is more than 1 brand)
good luck
go to the vet to see if it sick if it isn't try a differnet bird food
take you parakeet to the vet
try bread and some fruit
Make sure you are feeding the same mix the pet store was giving them. If you bought a new type of food he may not recognize it and will not want to try it. Parakeets, unfortunately can be very stubborn about food changes, too. Make sure that you change the seed EVERY day. That way it will be fresh and he will be more willing to try it. Yes, millet is really a treat, but in very young birds, that may be all they eat when you first bring him home. (They are stressed anyway and often do not feel comfortable at first) Please take note that in a bird that small, they can starve in just a couple of days or so because their metabolisms are so high. Feed him what he will eat and gradually try to wean him onto the new diet. Try breaking up the millet and mixing it in with the new food. Then he will hopefully give the new seed a try while picking out the millet. Do not forget that birds need fresh foods, too. (veggies and some fruit) It may take months for them to try fresh foods, and that seems like a waste, but it will increase your little friend's lifespan ;)
Good luck.
One more note: try covering 1/2 of the cage for a couple of weeks. Put the seed cup on the covered side. this way he will not feel threatened and he has a safe place to hide. You can use a dark blanket or sheet for this. After a week or two, he will become more used to his surroundings and you and he should feel more comfortable.
Parakeets dont eat regular bird food they have a special type of food for them. They're little round seeds. If its not wat your already got then go to the petshop and buy some parakeet food. All parrots dont eat the same. The larger parrots have big seeds and the smaller one have small ones.
Answers:
I know this may sound weird, but make sure that he DOES have food in his bowl. Parakeets eat the middle of the seed, and leave the shells, and it looks like he's got plenty to eat, but all there is is shells.
Dump what you got in there, and give him new stuff. If all he eats is millet, he'll be fine, give him some time, he's just getting used to a new place too. If you still don't see him eat, try some other food (there is more than 1 brand)
good luck
go to the vet to see if it sick if it isn't try a differnet bird food
take you parakeet to the vet
try bread and some fruit
Make sure you are feeding the same mix the pet store was giving them. If you bought a new type of food he may not recognize it and will not want to try it. Parakeets, unfortunately can be very stubborn about food changes, too. Make sure that you change the seed EVERY day. That way it will be fresh and he will be more willing to try it. Yes, millet is really a treat, but in very young birds, that may be all they eat when you first bring him home. (They are stressed anyway and often do not feel comfortable at first) Please take note that in a bird that small, they can starve in just a couple of days or so because their metabolisms are so high. Feed him what he will eat and gradually try to wean him onto the new diet. Try breaking up the millet and mixing it in with the new food. Then he will hopefully give the new seed a try while picking out the millet. Do not forget that birds need fresh foods, too. (veggies and some fruit) It may take months for them to try fresh foods, and that seems like a waste, but it will increase your little friend's lifespan ;)
Good luck.
One more note: try covering 1/2 of the cage for a couple of weeks. Put the seed cup on the covered side. this way he will not feel threatened and he has a safe place to hide. You can use a dark blanket or sheet for this. After a week or two, he will become more used to his surroundings and you and he should feel more comfortable.
Parakeets dont eat regular bird food they have a special type of food for them. They're little round seeds. If its not wat your already got then go to the petshop and buy some parakeet food. All parrots dont eat the same. The larger parrots have big seeds and the smaller one have small ones.
help! my parakeets claws turn upwards what do i need to do!we found him so were not sure if we should take him
Answers:
his claws need clipping take him to a vet..
if you found him, then I suggest that you contact a vet and ask them they might want to make sure he is not sick and does not have any diseases.
I'm not really sure what you mean. Maybe you can cut his nails with a nail clipper. They need sandpaper to scratch on, they sell it at pet stores. If you found him, of course you should keep him!
Does he have one of those little swing things hanging in his cage? That gives them something to hold onto with their claws. You might try taking him down to PetSmart and asking if they know what the problem could be.
I'm no vet, but I've seen another bird's claws turn upwards, and in that situation it was because his claws had been torn off. It would in no way be a reason not to take him, as he could still live a happy, normal life.
There is also a possibility that it is from the bird not having a "perch," only being able to stand on a flat surface, so the claws would grow at an awkward angle. It this were the reason, and if it hadn't gone on for too long, it is possible that they may return to something more normal-looking with some proper perches and some time.
TAKE HIM OR HER TO A VET
do you know how or why it turned out of shape? why don't you take him to the nearest vet office.
I've never had this problem with parakeets, but I have had it happen with cockatiels. There is no reason to not take him, but keep an eye on the nails as they might get really long and need regular clipping, which isn't hard to do once you learn how.
If you found him I assume you checked with the Local Humane Society like SPCA to see if anyone reported losing one. The owners would probably Love to have him back. Ours has escaped a month or so ago and I still check with them to see if anyone has reported one.
It could have been out and about for awhile if where you are is warm and could have found food at birdfeeders and such. Nails may have been already overgrown and became more so since. Obviously whatever is the reason is sounds like it is a surviver so it seems as though t isn t a major problem. If you tried to find the orginal owner and no one reported losing one and you would like him that s great. I would love to think mine was in such good hands if somehow it wasn t possible for us to have him back.
help! my new finches are throwing litter all ove my floor?
My room mate and I just got finches. I have never had birds before and heard they were the best starter birds and they have a really nice song. The problem is we got grit littler for them and they throw it all over the floor (there cage is abiout three feet off the ground). They also kinda smell, this is after like two days. Is this normal? Should I just buy new straw litter instead and buy an air freshener. My room mates throwing a fit about me not loving them.
Answers:
I agree with the newspaper advice. It keeps things pretty clean. To help cut down on the odor, you can cut several sheets to size and layer them in the cage, then make removing a sheet every day part of your routine: give them fresh water, food, and pull out a sheet of the soiled paper, revealing a fresh sheet.
Welcome to bird ownership!
welcome to the world of birds. Try using newspaper instead. If you need to put grit in there..which they really don't need, just sprinkle a tiny bit on the floor of the cage.
Yes, they need to be cleaned every couple of days.
Line the cage with newspaper instead.
And the cage shouldnt smell.. Ive had birds for 5 years and never noticed a cage smelling after such a short ammount of time.
This seems quite normal, finches are not the tidiest of birds. They will root about in the bottom of the cage looking for seeds that they have flicked out of the dishes.
there is a new type of cage called a vision by a company called Ferplast which is mainly clear plastc and very little amount of bars this may help with the litter falling out of the cage.
your problem is quit simple really . 1st thing is 'you have to be smarter then the little bird'
> go to any pet suppy store .purchase tiny finch orthopetic shoes
they come in a wide assortment of sizes and colors
average price is $25.00
> your birds (finches) will need to wear the shoes for at least
6 months to a year
> in the meantime get another room mate
Bird Cages.
"Love Your Feathered Friend? Choose the Best Bird Cage Ever!"
Things To Think About Before You Buy A Pet Bird
While a bird is an easy pet to care for, they do require just as much commitment and preparation as any other type of pet. Whether you are buying a small parakeet or an large parrot, you should make sure that you are prepared to care for your new feathered friend properly.
One thing that all pets, including birds need is attention. If your schedule has you working long hours and not spending much time at home, perhaps you should consider a fish tank instead of a bird. A bird cannot be left in it鈥檚 cage alone all the time and still be expected to be friendly on the odd days when you feel like playing with it. Some birds require more interaction than others, but they are social creatures and need you to set aside some time each day to play with them. You can use this time to teach them tricks and strengthen the bond between you.
When considering bringing a bird into your home, you must think about the safety of your new pet. Are there other pets in the house that could be threatening to the bird? Are there tiny nooks and crannies that a bird could get into and hurt himself? Do the other members of your family leave the windows and doors open where the bird could fly out and be lost? All these things must be considered for the safety of your new pet
The purchase and placement of his cage is another consideration. You must buy a cage that is the right size for your bird. Many parrots become quite adept at opening their own cage doors so you should consider how easy the cage is to break out of. The cage should be made out of a safe material and have bars spaced in such a way that the bird cannot get his head stuck in between them. There should be no sharp edges and their should be appropriate food and water dishes as well as perches inside the cage. Cages can be expensive, but don鈥檛 skimp on this as it is your pets new home!
Before you buy the cage, consider where you will be keeping it. It is best if the cage can be in a quiet corner but near family activities as your bird really wants to be part of the family. You should keep it out of direct sunlight, and away from any drafts or anywhere that could have a sudden change in temperature like in front of the heater or air conditions. Avoid placing the cage in the kitchen as fumes and hot surfaces can be hazardous. Be aware that the fumes from nonstick pans can be deadly to a pet bird, so make sure you get rid of all your non stick pans before bringing your bird home. Of course, you will want to keep the cage out of the path of traffic so you need to buy a cage that is the appropriate size for your bird as well as the right size to fit in the intended area.
Depending on the size of your bird, you may want to consider the level of noise that he will produce. Parakeets make little chirpy noises that, for the most part, are not annoying. Conures, on the other hand have a shrill call that goes right through you. Most happy birds will not yell constantly, but it is natural for them to call out at times so make sure you (and your neighbors) can handle the level of noise produced by the bird.
Finally, make sure that you want to commit to the care that is necessary to have a happy healthy bird. You鈥檒l need to clean out the cage daily and make sure you provide fresh food and water. Food your bird a varied diet and have him checked by a vet (preferably one who specializes in birds) every year.
Birds can be very rewarding pets and take minimal care but they must be provided with a comfortable and safe environment and your companionship in order to thrive. Many birds can live for 20 years or more, so you are making a long commitment when you bring home your new feathered friend. This commitment to care and companionship is well worth it, however, as the rewards of owning these enchanting creatures are many!
http://www.finchinfo.com/
http://home.flash.net/~billgood/basic.ht.
wen i was 10 i got finches they were cute but they made alot of mess so wat my mom did was to get fish net fabric and put it around the cage then sew a thick string around it then tie it to the cage but make sure the fish net material has really small holes
If you have a grate over the grit they will be unable to throw it out of the cage, plus they will stay cleaner by not having to walk through their own feces.
Answers:
I agree with the newspaper advice. It keeps things pretty clean. To help cut down on the odor, you can cut several sheets to size and layer them in the cage, then make removing a sheet every day part of your routine: give them fresh water, food, and pull out a sheet of the soiled paper, revealing a fresh sheet.
Welcome to bird ownership!
welcome to the world of birds. Try using newspaper instead. If you need to put grit in there..which they really don't need, just sprinkle a tiny bit on the floor of the cage.
Yes, they need to be cleaned every couple of days.
Line the cage with newspaper instead.
And the cage shouldnt smell.. Ive had birds for 5 years and never noticed a cage smelling after such a short ammount of time.
This seems quite normal, finches are not the tidiest of birds. They will root about in the bottom of the cage looking for seeds that they have flicked out of the dishes.
there is a new type of cage called a vision by a company called Ferplast which is mainly clear plastc and very little amount of bars this may help with the litter falling out of the cage.
your problem is quit simple really . 1st thing is 'you have to be smarter then the little bird'
> go to any pet suppy store .purchase tiny finch orthopetic shoes
they come in a wide assortment of sizes and colors
average price is $25.00
> your birds (finches) will need to wear the shoes for at least
6 months to a year
> in the meantime get another room mate
Bird Cages.
"Love Your Feathered Friend? Choose the Best Bird Cage Ever!"
Things To Think About Before You Buy A Pet Bird
While a bird is an easy pet to care for, they do require just as much commitment and preparation as any other type of pet. Whether you are buying a small parakeet or an large parrot, you should make sure that you are prepared to care for your new feathered friend properly.
One thing that all pets, including birds need is attention. If your schedule has you working long hours and not spending much time at home, perhaps you should consider a fish tank instead of a bird. A bird cannot be left in it鈥檚 cage alone all the time and still be expected to be friendly on the odd days when you feel like playing with it. Some birds require more interaction than others, but they are social creatures and need you to set aside some time each day to play with them. You can use this time to teach them tricks and strengthen the bond between you.
When considering bringing a bird into your home, you must think about the safety of your new pet. Are there other pets in the house that could be threatening to the bird? Are there tiny nooks and crannies that a bird could get into and hurt himself? Do the other members of your family leave the windows and doors open where the bird could fly out and be lost? All these things must be considered for the safety of your new pet
The purchase and placement of his cage is another consideration. You must buy a cage that is the right size for your bird. Many parrots become quite adept at opening their own cage doors so you should consider how easy the cage is to break out of. The cage should be made out of a safe material and have bars spaced in such a way that the bird cannot get his head stuck in between them. There should be no sharp edges and their should be appropriate food and water dishes as well as perches inside the cage. Cages can be expensive, but don鈥檛 skimp on this as it is your pets new home!
Before you buy the cage, consider where you will be keeping it. It is best if the cage can be in a quiet corner but near family activities as your bird really wants to be part of the family. You should keep it out of direct sunlight, and away from any drafts or anywhere that could have a sudden change in temperature like in front of the heater or air conditions. Avoid placing the cage in the kitchen as fumes and hot surfaces can be hazardous. Be aware that the fumes from nonstick pans can be deadly to a pet bird, so make sure you get rid of all your non stick pans before bringing your bird home. Of course, you will want to keep the cage out of the path of traffic so you need to buy a cage that is the appropriate size for your bird as well as the right size to fit in the intended area.
Depending on the size of your bird, you may want to consider the level of noise that he will produce. Parakeets make little chirpy noises that, for the most part, are not annoying. Conures, on the other hand have a shrill call that goes right through you. Most happy birds will not yell constantly, but it is natural for them to call out at times so make sure you (and your neighbors) can handle the level of noise produced by the bird.
Finally, make sure that you want to commit to the care that is necessary to have a happy healthy bird. You鈥檒l need to clean out the cage daily and make sure you provide fresh food and water. Food your bird a varied diet and have him checked by a vet (preferably one who specializes in birds) every year.
Birds can be very rewarding pets and take minimal care but they must be provided with a comfortable and safe environment and your companionship in order to thrive. Many birds can live for 20 years or more, so you are making a long commitment when you bring home your new feathered friend. This commitment to care and companionship is well worth it, however, as the rewards of owning these enchanting creatures are many!
http://www.finchinfo.com/
http://home.flash.net/~billgood/basic.ht.
wen i was 10 i got finches they were cute but they made alot of mess so wat my mom did was to get fish net fabric and put it around the cage then sew a thick string around it then tie it to the cage but make sure the fish net material has really small holes
If you have a grate over the grit they will be unable to throw it out of the cage, plus they will stay cleaner by not having to walk through their own feces.
Help! My budgees are fighting nonstop!?
One of them is new. How long till they get along? One is male, one female. Large cage, plenty of food and water, lots of cool toys, and they each have their own space. Yet, they are really quarrelsome (acquired one of them yesterday).
Answers:
Unfortunately you have already made a few mistakes. You should never introduce a new bird by putting it in someones Else's house(your first bird's). A second temporary cage is recommended. If the birds are not purchased together, they should be quarantined before trying to put them together. This way if one is ill it will not pass it on to the other. The books usually suggest about a week.
Next problem is putting them together. Your first bird has claimed the entire cage as their house. You have now put in an intruder to invade his/her space. As a result, fighting.
The next thing is male/female relationship. Try to think of these little birds as humans. How would you like to be told to have to live with this person that has been chosen for you. Maybe you don't like him/her. Again fighting.
As you have done these things already, the best you can do now is to wait it out. They may come to accept each other, but keep your eye on them. I have had the experience where the female became vicious and would go after the male and constantly bite his feet until he was removed.
Get your BB gun out.pump it up.and blow the "BUGEESUS" out of the one that starts the trouble.no more fighting.OR..try keeping them covered a little more..(during the daytime)..they calm down in the dark..worth a "shot".lol
The original Budgie is defending its territory.
COMPLETELY rearrange the cage and change out as many of the items as possible and move it to a new location. This will make it seem like a new, different, neutral cage.
Leave the new Budgie in the rearranged cage and put the older one in a separate cage (a small travel cage is OK, it is just temporary, but the bigger the better). Leave them in sight of each other for a few days but do not give them access to one another.
Let them out to play together when you can be around to supervise and see how they do. If they are starting to get along and get in the cage together, they may be OK from there.
Budgies are flock animals and they will want to be together (unless one or both is a very people oriented bird). The original bird just needs to get over the feeling (s)he is being invaded.
Good Luck!
Separate them in 2 separate cages. In adjascent rooms ok. Let them hear each other. If they behave happily let them have the cages nearer, then cages touching..but dont put them together ..not for awhile.. If they arfer acting loving you might try it.
It sounds like the * is frisky with the hen. If the hen is not in breeding condition she won't be interested hm mm sounds familiar . They should settle down
They should settle down within 48 hours, if the female is the new bird the male will be trying to mate. If the male is the new bird the female will be the dominant one as she has territorial advantage. Try to change the cage around and move it to a new position in the room this will then reduce her animosity towards the new male and they will end up feeding each other before too long.
best of luck
Do you maybe have another cage that you could put the new one in? I got my first parakeet 3 years ago. She was the only bird until about April. When I bought a male, I got a bigger cage (for the two of them). I kept her in the smaller, older cage and him in the new one. I put her cage next to his so they could get adjusted to each other. Before too long they were hanging off the sides of their cages trying to check the other one out. After a few days, I put her into the new, bigger cage and they've been getting along great ever since. You need to slowly introduce them to eachother. Would you like it if some stranger just moved into your room and got into your stuff?
Answers:
Unfortunately you have already made a few mistakes. You should never introduce a new bird by putting it in someones Else's house(your first bird's). A second temporary cage is recommended. If the birds are not purchased together, they should be quarantined before trying to put them together. This way if one is ill it will not pass it on to the other. The books usually suggest about a week.
Next problem is putting them together. Your first bird has claimed the entire cage as their house. You have now put in an intruder to invade his/her space. As a result, fighting.
The next thing is male/female relationship. Try to think of these little birds as humans. How would you like to be told to have to live with this person that has been chosen for you. Maybe you don't like him/her. Again fighting.
As you have done these things already, the best you can do now is to wait it out. They may come to accept each other, but keep your eye on them. I have had the experience where the female became vicious and would go after the male and constantly bite his feet until he was removed.
Get your BB gun out.pump it up.and blow the "BUGEESUS" out of the one that starts the trouble.no more fighting.OR..try keeping them covered a little more..(during the daytime)..they calm down in the dark..worth a "shot".lol
The original Budgie is defending its territory.
COMPLETELY rearrange the cage and change out as many of the items as possible and move it to a new location. This will make it seem like a new, different, neutral cage.
Leave the new Budgie in the rearranged cage and put the older one in a separate cage (a small travel cage is OK, it is just temporary, but the bigger the better). Leave them in sight of each other for a few days but do not give them access to one another.
Let them out to play together when you can be around to supervise and see how they do. If they are starting to get along and get in the cage together, they may be OK from there.
Budgies are flock animals and they will want to be together (unless one or both is a very people oriented bird). The original bird just needs to get over the feeling (s)he is being invaded.
Good Luck!
Separate them in 2 separate cages. In adjascent rooms ok. Let them hear each other. If they behave happily let them have the cages nearer, then cages touching..but dont put them together ..not for awhile.. If they arfer acting loving you might try it.
It sounds like the * is frisky with the hen. If the hen is not in breeding condition she won't be interested hm mm sounds familiar . They should settle down
They should settle down within 48 hours, if the female is the new bird the male will be trying to mate. If the male is the new bird the female will be the dominant one as she has territorial advantage. Try to change the cage around and move it to a new position in the room this will then reduce her animosity towards the new male and they will end up feeding each other before too long.
best of luck
Do you maybe have another cage that you could put the new one in? I got my first parakeet 3 years ago. She was the only bird until about April. When I bought a male, I got a bigger cage (for the two of them). I kept her in the smaller, older cage and him in the new one. I put her cage next to his so they could get adjusted to each other. Before too long they were hanging off the sides of their cages trying to check the other one out. After a few days, I put her into the new, bigger cage and they've been getting along great ever since. You need to slowly introduce them to eachother. Would you like it if some stranger just moved into your room and got into your stuff?
help! leash issues!!?
i adopted a 2-year-old lab/rottie mix about 6 weeks ago--he's great at home, but does not seem to be "getting" the leash thing--doesn't go after people or other dogs, but pulls ME down the street--what to do!!?? any suggestions?
i think i might need cesar milan "the dog whisperer"!! :)
Answers:
The Gentle Leader or Halti could prove to be a salvation for you both. If you adopted your dog (good work, by the way!) at a shelter then you might be able to find one there and at a substantially reduced cost since you're an adopter and, hence, a member. Shelters love Gentle Leaders because they are so much more humane that choke or spike collars and the training really doesn't take long at all. Call the shelter.ask about a GL and, perhaps, a behavior consult to ensure that you're using the GL to it's full advantage.
Good luck!
get a submission collar it goes up over their nose nad when he pulls it pulls his nose down. makes hi relize he isnt he boss
go get a good chock collar put a lease on it will tell the dog what it is doing wrong
well you could first go to the store and buy some treats then take him the lease and the teats into your backyard put it on him and if he pulls yank hard and say bad boy so then when you take so steps and he does nothing give him a treat and so on do this about for a week and you will do fine
i thought this was the bird section??
I have trained adult dogs many times that try to pull me down the street. When you go for your walk, every time he pulls, give him a quick tug and say NO! or HEEL!. Do not let him get away with pulling not even once. Persistence is the key. Eventually he will clue in and find that it's no fun to pull. There is also a contraption called "the gentle leader". It goes around the face as sorta like a muzzle but not that bad. It pulls its head to the side every time he pulls against the leash. He definitely won't enjoy pulling if you use it. Hope this helps. Good Luck!
I have a female Rottie who did literally pull me into the street. It is not fun for you to walk a dog like that. Not to mention dangerous for dog and you. Get a Gentle Leader. It is a head harness- and GREATLY will reduce pulling if not completely. They cost about $20.00 but worth EVERY cent. I can walk my dog now! And its enjoyable for us both.
I do not like choke or pinch collars. I think they encourage pulling.
This may sound cruel, but trust me, it's not. Purchase a prong collar for your dog. When he pulls the pressure from the prongs will teach him to stop pulling. He won't hurt himself but he will learn not to pull. Make sure you get the correct size for him and it will do the trick.
take him for a walk with a bag of treats. every 5 feet you go he dosent tug give him one. once he gets the idea you can give him ultra long walks with out being draged down the street yeling, kicking and screaming. what ever you do dont use a choke chain. there crule and your dog. might even come to hate you if you do.
You can get a head harness. They work great. It will take him a few times to get use to wearing it but you will love the results.
When I use a head harness I use two leashes 1 to the head harness and the other to the collar. So if they get out of the head harness you can still have control of your dog.
all you need to do is wip your dogs a*s and show him how he is suppose to walk with you on the street or you can just make him run. here is one way you get in your car hold the leash with your dog outside of the car and go aroud the neighborhood 25 to 30 mph and see how he likes being dragged down the street
This is not that big of a deal. Just get a choke chain or a "No Pull Collar". The choke chain will do what it says, choke the dog untill it releases. Many people think this is cruel but it is a very affective training method. And the "No Pull Collar" goes around the dog's muzzel. The dogs dont have as much strength on the head then the do on the neck so he wont be able to pull you. Good Luck.
I was having the same problem with my German shephard (when he wasn't eating his collar/harness thingy), I finally found a harness on e-bay that is like a normal collar with an attachment that loops around your dog's front legs and attaches on the collar at the breastbone and loops around (like a normal harness) under the front legs and up to where you would usually attach a leash at the back of the neck and the attachments loop through it and then you attach the leash to the remainder. It really works as when he pulls, it tightens up around his legs (that part is well padded on the harness) and don't choke him like the choke collars do, but he gets the same idea. I can't leave it on him 24/7 like a normal collar though as he will eat it, I'm still trying to work that one out.
at least your dog can walk on a leash my chihuahua cant.chock collar should do the trick or a harness i suggest you get your dog train at petsmart
cesar would tell you to put a choke collar on this dog and have a strong leash, when you go out to walk make sure the collar is around the top of his neck, right behind his ears, so that you have
control of his head, everytime he starts pulling, pop his leash and put him into a sit, make sure that the collar stays in the correct position
you must maintain control over a dog this size
i think i might need cesar milan "the dog whisperer"!! :)
Answers:
The Gentle Leader or Halti could prove to be a salvation for you both. If you adopted your dog (good work, by the way!) at a shelter then you might be able to find one there and at a substantially reduced cost since you're an adopter and, hence, a member. Shelters love Gentle Leaders because they are so much more humane that choke or spike collars and the training really doesn't take long at all. Call the shelter.ask about a GL and, perhaps, a behavior consult to ensure that you're using the GL to it's full advantage.
Good luck!
get a submission collar it goes up over their nose nad when he pulls it pulls his nose down. makes hi relize he isnt he boss
go get a good chock collar put a lease on it will tell the dog what it is doing wrong
well you could first go to the store and buy some treats then take him the lease and the teats into your backyard put it on him and if he pulls yank hard and say bad boy so then when you take so steps and he does nothing give him a treat and so on do this about for a week and you will do fine
i thought this was the bird section??
I have trained adult dogs many times that try to pull me down the street. When you go for your walk, every time he pulls, give him a quick tug and say NO! or HEEL!. Do not let him get away with pulling not even once. Persistence is the key. Eventually he will clue in and find that it's no fun to pull. There is also a contraption called "the gentle leader". It goes around the face as sorta like a muzzle but not that bad. It pulls its head to the side every time he pulls against the leash. He definitely won't enjoy pulling if you use it. Hope this helps. Good Luck!
I have a female Rottie who did literally pull me into the street. It is not fun for you to walk a dog like that. Not to mention dangerous for dog and you. Get a Gentle Leader. It is a head harness- and GREATLY will reduce pulling if not completely. They cost about $20.00 but worth EVERY cent. I can walk my dog now! And its enjoyable for us both.
I do not like choke or pinch collars. I think they encourage pulling.
This may sound cruel, but trust me, it's not. Purchase a prong collar for your dog. When he pulls the pressure from the prongs will teach him to stop pulling. He won't hurt himself but he will learn not to pull. Make sure you get the correct size for him and it will do the trick.
take him for a walk with a bag of treats. every 5 feet you go he dosent tug give him one. once he gets the idea you can give him ultra long walks with out being draged down the street yeling, kicking and screaming. what ever you do dont use a choke chain. there crule and your dog. might even come to hate you if you do.
You can get a head harness. They work great. It will take him a few times to get use to wearing it but you will love the results.
When I use a head harness I use two leashes 1 to the head harness and the other to the collar. So if they get out of the head harness you can still have control of your dog.
all you need to do is wip your dogs a*s and show him how he is suppose to walk with you on the street or you can just make him run. here is one way you get in your car hold the leash with your dog outside of the car and go aroud the neighborhood 25 to 30 mph and see how he likes being dragged down the street
This is not that big of a deal. Just get a choke chain or a "No Pull Collar". The choke chain will do what it says, choke the dog untill it releases. Many people think this is cruel but it is a very affective training method. And the "No Pull Collar" goes around the dog's muzzel. The dogs dont have as much strength on the head then the do on the neck so he wont be able to pull you. Good Luck.
I was having the same problem with my German shephard (when he wasn't eating his collar/harness thingy), I finally found a harness on e-bay that is like a normal collar with an attachment that loops around your dog's front legs and attaches on the collar at the breastbone and loops around (like a normal harness) under the front legs and up to where you would usually attach a leash at the back of the neck and the attachments loop through it and then you attach the leash to the remainder. It really works as when he pulls, it tightens up around his legs (that part is well padded on the harness) and don't choke him like the choke collars do, but he gets the same idea. I can't leave it on him 24/7 like a normal collar though as he will eat it, I'm still trying to work that one out.
at least your dog can walk on a leash my chihuahua cant.chock collar should do the trick or a harness i suggest you get your dog train at petsmart
cesar would tell you to put a choke collar on this dog and have a strong leash, when you go out to walk make sure the collar is around the top of his neck, right behind his ears, so that you have
control of his head, everytime he starts pulling, pop his leash and put him into a sit, make sure that the collar stays in the correct position
you must maintain control over a dog this size
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