I got a young fancy budgie yesterday and ever since he or she got here it has been like hyper ventilating, pumping fast, opening mouth with the movement. He or she relaxed during the evening but started again. I am new at learning their temperament but it's beginning to worry me. He or she has a very big cage and everything they need to feel right at home, beautiful environment. I talked and try to socialize as well as keeping my distance for he or she to get adjusted until his or her friend join after the weekend of Thanksgiving. What should I do?
Answers:
I had the same exact problem with my cockatiel! It's mouth would open and shut like it was panting and it would do this more after flying around. I took it to a special bird vet and she wasn't too sure what the cause was. You'll be happy to know that my bird stopped doing this after getting more used to its new home. I left him alone and didn't handle him or talk to him for a week, I just worked around him so he would get used to my presence. I got 2 more birds eventually and this seemed to make him happier . I would try not to worry to much about this. I would continue keeping your distance but not try to socialize with it just yet. You might consider getting another budgie to keep it company, this might alleviate its anxiety. However, if it makes the situation worse, keep it in a nearby cage until its more adapted. I would not see a vet, there isn't much they can do. Again, try not to worry too much about this. My opinion is that it is just anxiety. You know how a dog pants when its stressed? You might want to try covering it at night so it doesn't get spooked (they can't see well in the dark at all). Good luck! I know you think your poor birdie is going to have a heart attack like I did but I think it'll stop this after a week or so.
Try putting a bath towel over the cage. The darkness should calm the budgie. If this carries on u should consult ur vet.
I would cover him / she with the night cover, leaving just - maybe a foot wide - opening. The whole thing may have been too much.
a budgie takes a minimum of six months to feel at home. so it is going to take along time for it to calm down especially if it is alone (meaning without another budgie). however it should only take about a week for it to stop acting like that. i have 4 and they all did that when i bought them
Sounds like heart arethmia. common in pet store bought birds. give it some time.make sure room is quiet. no loud noises, tv..music..ect.and just let it get used to cage and environment.if not better in a few days,,,,,,,call the pet store or call where you got it.
What you describe is not unusual for a new budgie. She sounds like she is stressing, which many do when first taken to a new home, with new people, etc. If you just give her some space, make sure no one else in the family is doing anything to scare her (i.e. sticking their fingers through the bars of the cage, etc), and slowly and quietly start trying to make friends with her after a few days have passed, she should begin to settle down.
It's important to remember that when a bird is "trapped" in a cage, anything new is VERY scary to them. She has to learn that you are going to love her and take good care of her, she doesn't automatically know that when she first comes home to join your family.
Good luck!
You should cover the cage for atleast 24 hours. Let them get used to the common noises in your home. When you approach their cage, do it slowly. Don't be sticking your hand in their cage to touch them right away either. Put your hand in the cage for a few seconds every so often- eventually the bird will think it's normal and pay even use it as a perch. It'll will take some time though (like weeks). My birds recognize that my hand means food and water. They don't fly around and go nuts anymore when I stick my hand in the cage to change their food.
If you're wanting another one (the friend joining them after Thanksgiving remark), I would wait until this one is used to you and your home. I got one in 2003 and I didn't get her a friend until this past spring.
If it helps, you can do what I did. I trained both my birds to be calm around me by turning them loose in the bathroom (closed off room with no fans, windows, or other animals). I would just sit there and let them wear themselves out from flying. Once they were good and tired, I'd gently pick them up and pet them softly. Also, you can put food in your hand and see if the bird will eat from it.
Also, when the bird is mature enough, you can tell male from femal by their cere (piece above the nose with their nostrils). If it turns blue or purple (or a mix), it's a male. If it is tan or brown, it's a female. Good luck!
I've got pictures of my parakeets on my 360 page.
Also, depending on the doors to this cage, you may need to use clothes pins to keep them shut. My bird figured out how to open all her doors (nice surprise when I got home form work). They're very smart.
well sometime it takes time to get accustomed to their new home talk to him softly let him know that ypu will not harm him sooner or later he will stop with the nonsense also if you offer it some treats he will start to gain some confiddence
If you just got "it" it is afraid. When you first bring one home, you should put them in a quiet room for a few days until they get the feel of the house. It is relaxed in the evening, probably 'cos it is darker and they are more relaxed in the dark. Don't put another bird in with it until it is completely relaxed with the house and you. Then introduce them by putting the cages next to each other. You have to be patient with birds, they are quite nervous. good luck
i would take the bird to the vet cause birds can die just like that.Some times when they do that they are having troulbe breathing. but im not sure its hard to say without seeing the bird. but i would take it to a bird vet to be on the safe side.
Monday, May 24, 2010
HELP, Am I making a mistake with Baby Cockatiel??
I bought a baby on October 3. He was about 2.5 weeks old when I brought him home. He is fully feathered and pecks at seed and eats pleanty of mellet spray. I offer carrots, corn, lettus etc.. He still screams to be hand fed. Is this normal? I am afraid he isnt getting water. He climbs, perches and flaps his wings happily. But ever time he seems me, he starts screatching for food. What do I do, is it to early to stop handfeeding? Am I spoiling him? How can I be sure he is eating and drinking properly? If I continue to fed at his becking call, will he eat on his own? If I discontinue food, will he starve or dehydrate? He is in a cage with my older tiel, he is doing great, seems to know how to climb all over the cage and reaches tall perches. I have fed Kaytee Exact. He appears healthy, I just dont want to loose him, or spoil him. Please any advice would be appreciated.
Answers:
I know a woman with a 10 year old cockatoo who will not eat anything that's not offered from between the woman's lips.
Cockatiels ought to be weaned by 8 weeks old. Here is an article that details timelines and tricks for weaning tiels.
http://www.birdsnways.com/wisdom/ww50eii.
Yes is it way to early to stop hand feeding. I feed mine every time they beg for food. Always offer regular food and as they eat more and more seed they will eventually stop begging. Mine usually at 6 -7 weeks old.
He will get the water he needs from the formula. But do keep a shallow dish of water so he can learn to drink from a dish.
Nothing wrong with spoiling your bird.
Where did you get a bird so young? And is this the first time you have hand-raised one? It sounds like it might be, and that you have plenty of unanswered questions. If you got it from a breeder, call them. They should have given you pretty explicit instructions on feeding.
If you got it from a pet store, you should still try to contact them, although some places may not be as reliable as they should be, especially if they are letting people take home such young birds, and not educating them.
You should contact an avian veterinarian in your area, for a better idea on how to hand raise a bird, and what is normal and healthy for your bird.
Try these sites as a basic guide on what you should be doing.
Good luck.
http://www.cockatiel.org/articles/handfe.
http://members.tripod.com/~cockatiels4u/.
My Mom raises Cockatiels and at one point we had over 60 birds in our home.no joke.
It's way way WAY too early to ween your Tiel! Keep seeds and water available at all times. When your tiel begs for the goods please provide and don't ween your tiel too early. Your baby still needs the nutrients and diet from the formula.
I remember my hand feeding dayz. My Mom made me care for the sick babes that the Momma bird woudn't go near. It was a fun hobby of mine and my Momma's business.
Your Birdie will know when he/she doesn't need the formula anymore. Usually around 8-10 weeks old.
You're going to have fun teaching your new birdie to whistle and talk! Start soon though with the training and they will never forget.
My first baby is about 14 years old now.Blind as a bat but still talks and whistles a storm! Incredible.Have a great time!
When I got my baby tiel, she used to do the same - scream and make all kinds of noises - and wouldn't shut up until I gave her pablum. She eventually ate on her own (seeds, fruits, veggies, etc) . so I think you are ok with feeding her until she eats seeds on her own. (If you can - try to get her on a pellet diet). I have been told by vets and breeders that tiels (and other birds?) can starve themselves . so make sure she is eating enough. I used to weigh mine when she was younger, to make sure she wasn't losing weight. However, my one before this never really liked being hand-fed and started eating seed right away.
Are you sure you don't mean 2.5 MONTHS old? A 2.5 WEEK old cannot eat on it's own, and does not have all it's feathers. My cockatiel babies fully weaned at around 11 weeks old. Please go to www.cockatielcottage.net for full info on feeding/handfeeding cockatiels.
. usually there are weened at 6 weeks .some birds you to feed until they ready. keep feeding him. if you know how to hand feed [really] you can give Little water in what you feed him with. i had a tiel i feed for 4 months he would not ween. it sound like he OK??? if you need anymore help e-mail me
he's not ready to wean yet, you need to be sure to feed him at least morning and night to make sure that he gets enough food
he will let you know when he gets tired of hand feeding
Yuor bird is too young to wean off of formula. Keep hand feeing it, and offer it some water from the feeding spoon.
The bird will be ready to start weaning in another 6 weeks or so.
Here is the link to a site that might be of some help for you.
http://www.angelfire.com/falcon/birdinfo.
Good luck.
At 5 weeks baby tire is still to young to eat completely on its own. Some of them that i have hand raised did not stop wanting hand feed until 8 weeks. You can tell when it is ready to stop hand feeding it will start to reject the hand feeding formula and stop altogether. You are doing a great job keep up the good work.
Answers:
I know a woman with a 10 year old cockatoo who will not eat anything that's not offered from between the woman's lips.
Cockatiels ought to be weaned by 8 weeks old. Here is an article that details timelines and tricks for weaning tiels.
http://www.birdsnways.com/wisdom/ww50eii.
Yes is it way to early to stop hand feeding. I feed mine every time they beg for food. Always offer regular food and as they eat more and more seed they will eventually stop begging. Mine usually at 6 -7 weeks old.
He will get the water he needs from the formula. But do keep a shallow dish of water so he can learn to drink from a dish.
Nothing wrong with spoiling your bird.
Where did you get a bird so young? And is this the first time you have hand-raised one? It sounds like it might be, and that you have plenty of unanswered questions. If you got it from a breeder, call them. They should have given you pretty explicit instructions on feeding.
If you got it from a pet store, you should still try to contact them, although some places may not be as reliable as they should be, especially if they are letting people take home such young birds, and not educating them.
You should contact an avian veterinarian in your area, for a better idea on how to hand raise a bird, and what is normal and healthy for your bird.
Try these sites as a basic guide on what you should be doing.
Good luck.
http://www.cockatiel.org/articles/handfe.
http://members.tripod.com/~cockatiels4u/.
My Mom raises Cockatiels and at one point we had over 60 birds in our home.no joke.
It's way way WAY too early to ween your Tiel! Keep seeds and water available at all times. When your tiel begs for the goods please provide and don't ween your tiel too early. Your baby still needs the nutrients and diet from the formula.
I remember my hand feeding dayz. My Mom made me care for the sick babes that the Momma bird woudn't go near. It was a fun hobby of mine and my Momma's business.
Your Birdie will know when he/she doesn't need the formula anymore. Usually around 8-10 weeks old.
You're going to have fun teaching your new birdie to whistle and talk! Start soon though with the training and they will never forget.
My first baby is about 14 years old now.Blind as a bat but still talks and whistles a storm! Incredible.Have a great time!
When I got my baby tiel, she used to do the same - scream and make all kinds of noises - and wouldn't shut up until I gave her pablum. She eventually ate on her own (seeds, fruits, veggies, etc) . so I think you are ok with feeding her until she eats seeds on her own. (If you can - try to get her on a pellet diet). I have been told by vets and breeders that tiels (and other birds?) can starve themselves . so make sure she is eating enough. I used to weigh mine when she was younger, to make sure she wasn't losing weight. However, my one before this never really liked being hand-fed and started eating seed right away.
Are you sure you don't mean 2.5 MONTHS old? A 2.5 WEEK old cannot eat on it's own, and does not have all it's feathers. My cockatiel babies fully weaned at around 11 weeks old. Please go to www.cockatielcottage.net for full info on feeding/handfeeding cockatiels.
. usually there are weened at 6 weeks .some birds you to feed until they ready. keep feeding him. if you know how to hand feed [really] you can give Little water in what you feed him with. i had a tiel i feed for 4 months he would not ween. it sound like he OK??? if you need anymore help e-mail me
he's not ready to wean yet, you need to be sure to feed him at least morning and night to make sure that he gets enough food
he will let you know when he gets tired of hand feeding
Yuor bird is too young to wean off of formula. Keep hand feeing it, and offer it some water from the feeding spoon.
The bird will be ready to start weaning in another 6 weeks or so.
Here is the link to a site that might be of some help for you.
http://www.angelfire.com/falcon/birdinfo.
Good luck.
At 5 weeks baby tire is still to young to eat completely on its own. Some of them that i have hand raised did not stop wanting hand feed until 8 weeks. You can tell when it is ready to stop hand feeding it will start to reject the hand feeding formula and stop altogether. You are doing a great job keep up the good work.
Help! plz! my parakeets not eating his food!?!?
I got a new parakeet just on monday, so like 5 days ago. I had regular bird seed food in his cage but he wouldn't eat it. So then we put some millet in too, and thats all he eats, he won't eat any of his regular food. I know millet is only supposed to be a treat but I am afraid if I take the millet out he won't eat anything. Please help, what should i do?
Answers:
I know this may sound weird, but make sure that he DOES have food in his bowl. Parakeets eat the middle of the seed, and leave the shells, and it looks like he's got plenty to eat, but all there is is shells.
Dump what you got in there, and give him new stuff. If all he eats is millet, he'll be fine, give him some time, he's just getting used to a new place too. If you still don't see him eat, try some other food (there is more than 1 brand)
good luck
go to the vet to see if it sick if it isn't try a differnet bird food
take you parakeet to the vet
try bread and some fruit
Make sure you are feeding the same mix the pet store was giving them. If you bought a new type of food he may not recognize it and will not want to try it. Parakeets, unfortunately can be very stubborn about food changes, too. Make sure that you change the seed EVERY day. That way it will be fresh and he will be more willing to try it. Yes, millet is really a treat, but in very young birds, that may be all they eat when you first bring him home. (They are stressed anyway and often do not feel comfortable at first) Please take note that in a bird that small, they can starve in just a couple of days or so because their metabolisms are so high. Feed him what he will eat and gradually try to wean him onto the new diet. Try breaking up the millet and mixing it in with the new food. Then he will hopefully give the new seed a try while picking out the millet. Do not forget that birds need fresh foods, too. (veggies and some fruit) It may take months for them to try fresh foods, and that seems like a waste, but it will increase your little friend's lifespan ;)
Good luck.
One more note: try covering 1/2 of the cage for a couple of weeks. Put the seed cup on the covered side. this way he will not feel threatened and he has a safe place to hide. You can use a dark blanket or sheet for this. After a week or two, he will become more used to his surroundings and you and he should feel more comfortable.
Parakeets dont eat regular bird food they have a special type of food for them. They're little round seeds. If its not wat your already got then go to the petshop and buy some parakeet food. All parrots dont eat the same. The larger parrots have big seeds and the smaller one have small ones.
Answers:
I know this may sound weird, but make sure that he DOES have food in his bowl. Parakeets eat the middle of the seed, and leave the shells, and it looks like he's got plenty to eat, but all there is is shells.
Dump what you got in there, and give him new stuff. If all he eats is millet, he'll be fine, give him some time, he's just getting used to a new place too. If you still don't see him eat, try some other food (there is more than 1 brand)
good luck
go to the vet to see if it sick if it isn't try a differnet bird food
take you parakeet to the vet
try bread and some fruit
Make sure you are feeding the same mix the pet store was giving them. If you bought a new type of food he may not recognize it and will not want to try it. Parakeets, unfortunately can be very stubborn about food changes, too. Make sure that you change the seed EVERY day. That way it will be fresh and he will be more willing to try it. Yes, millet is really a treat, but in very young birds, that may be all they eat when you first bring him home. (They are stressed anyway and often do not feel comfortable at first) Please take note that in a bird that small, they can starve in just a couple of days or so because their metabolisms are so high. Feed him what he will eat and gradually try to wean him onto the new diet. Try breaking up the millet and mixing it in with the new food. Then he will hopefully give the new seed a try while picking out the millet. Do not forget that birds need fresh foods, too. (veggies and some fruit) It may take months for them to try fresh foods, and that seems like a waste, but it will increase your little friend's lifespan ;)
Good luck.
One more note: try covering 1/2 of the cage for a couple of weeks. Put the seed cup on the covered side. this way he will not feel threatened and he has a safe place to hide. You can use a dark blanket or sheet for this. After a week or two, he will become more used to his surroundings and you and he should feel more comfortable.
Parakeets dont eat regular bird food they have a special type of food for them. They're little round seeds. If its not wat your already got then go to the petshop and buy some parakeet food. All parrots dont eat the same. The larger parrots have big seeds and the smaller one have small ones.
help! my parakeets claws turn upwards what do i need to do!we found him so were not sure if we should take him
Answers:
his claws need clipping take him to a vet..
if you found him, then I suggest that you contact a vet and ask them they might want to make sure he is not sick and does not have any diseases.
I'm not really sure what you mean. Maybe you can cut his nails with a nail clipper. They need sandpaper to scratch on, they sell it at pet stores. If you found him, of course you should keep him!
Does he have one of those little swing things hanging in his cage? That gives them something to hold onto with their claws. You might try taking him down to PetSmart and asking if they know what the problem could be.
I'm no vet, but I've seen another bird's claws turn upwards, and in that situation it was because his claws had been torn off. It would in no way be a reason not to take him, as he could still live a happy, normal life.
There is also a possibility that it is from the bird not having a "perch," only being able to stand on a flat surface, so the claws would grow at an awkward angle. It this were the reason, and if it hadn't gone on for too long, it is possible that they may return to something more normal-looking with some proper perches and some time.
TAKE HIM OR HER TO A VET
do you know how or why it turned out of shape? why don't you take him to the nearest vet office.
I've never had this problem with parakeets, but I have had it happen with cockatiels. There is no reason to not take him, but keep an eye on the nails as they might get really long and need regular clipping, which isn't hard to do once you learn how.
If you found him I assume you checked with the Local Humane Society like SPCA to see if anyone reported losing one. The owners would probably Love to have him back. Ours has escaped a month or so ago and I still check with them to see if anyone has reported one.
It could have been out and about for awhile if where you are is warm and could have found food at birdfeeders and such. Nails may have been already overgrown and became more so since. Obviously whatever is the reason is sounds like it is a surviver so it seems as though t isn t a major problem. If you tried to find the orginal owner and no one reported losing one and you would like him that s great. I would love to think mine was in such good hands if somehow it wasn t possible for us to have him back.
help! my new finches are throwing litter all ove my floor?
My room mate and I just got finches. I have never had birds before and heard they were the best starter birds and they have a really nice song. The problem is we got grit littler for them and they throw it all over the floor (there cage is abiout three feet off the ground). They also kinda smell, this is after like two days. Is this normal? Should I just buy new straw litter instead and buy an air freshener. My room mates throwing a fit about me not loving them.
Answers:
I agree with the newspaper advice. It keeps things pretty clean. To help cut down on the odor, you can cut several sheets to size and layer them in the cage, then make removing a sheet every day part of your routine: give them fresh water, food, and pull out a sheet of the soiled paper, revealing a fresh sheet.
Welcome to bird ownership!
welcome to the world of birds. Try using newspaper instead. If you need to put grit in there..which they really don't need, just sprinkle a tiny bit on the floor of the cage.
Yes, they need to be cleaned every couple of days.
Line the cage with newspaper instead.
And the cage shouldnt smell.. Ive had birds for 5 years and never noticed a cage smelling after such a short ammount of time.
This seems quite normal, finches are not the tidiest of birds. They will root about in the bottom of the cage looking for seeds that they have flicked out of the dishes.
there is a new type of cage called a vision by a company called Ferplast which is mainly clear plastc and very little amount of bars this may help with the litter falling out of the cage.
your problem is quit simple really . 1st thing is 'you have to be smarter then the little bird'
> go to any pet suppy store .purchase tiny finch orthopetic shoes
they come in a wide assortment of sizes and colors
average price is $25.00
> your birds (finches) will need to wear the shoes for at least
6 months to a year
> in the meantime get another room mate
Bird Cages.
"Love Your Feathered Friend? Choose the Best Bird Cage Ever!"
Things To Think About Before You Buy A Pet Bird
While a bird is an easy pet to care for, they do require just as much commitment and preparation as any other type of pet. Whether you are buying a small parakeet or an large parrot, you should make sure that you are prepared to care for your new feathered friend properly.
One thing that all pets, including birds need is attention. If your schedule has you working long hours and not spending much time at home, perhaps you should consider a fish tank instead of a bird. A bird cannot be left in it鈥檚 cage alone all the time and still be expected to be friendly on the odd days when you feel like playing with it. Some birds require more interaction than others, but they are social creatures and need you to set aside some time each day to play with them. You can use this time to teach them tricks and strengthen the bond between you.
When considering bringing a bird into your home, you must think about the safety of your new pet. Are there other pets in the house that could be threatening to the bird? Are there tiny nooks and crannies that a bird could get into and hurt himself? Do the other members of your family leave the windows and doors open where the bird could fly out and be lost? All these things must be considered for the safety of your new pet
The purchase and placement of his cage is another consideration. You must buy a cage that is the right size for your bird. Many parrots become quite adept at opening their own cage doors so you should consider how easy the cage is to break out of. The cage should be made out of a safe material and have bars spaced in such a way that the bird cannot get his head stuck in between them. There should be no sharp edges and their should be appropriate food and water dishes as well as perches inside the cage. Cages can be expensive, but don鈥檛 skimp on this as it is your pets new home!
Before you buy the cage, consider where you will be keeping it. It is best if the cage can be in a quiet corner but near family activities as your bird really wants to be part of the family. You should keep it out of direct sunlight, and away from any drafts or anywhere that could have a sudden change in temperature like in front of the heater or air conditions. Avoid placing the cage in the kitchen as fumes and hot surfaces can be hazardous. Be aware that the fumes from nonstick pans can be deadly to a pet bird, so make sure you get rid of all your non stick pans before bringing your bird home. Of course, you will want to keep the cage out of the path of traffic so you need to buy a cage that is the appropriate size for your bird as well as the right size to fit in the intended area.
Depending on the size of your bird, you may want to consider the level of noise that he will produce. Parakeets make little chirpy noises that, for the most part, are not annoying. Conures, on the other hand have a shrill call that goes right through you. Most happy birds will not yell constantly, but it is natural for them to call out at times so make sure you (and your neighbors) can handle the level of noise produced by the bird.
Finally, make sure that you want to commit to the care that is necessary to have a happy healthy bird. You鈥檒l need to clean out the cage daily and make sure you provide fresh food and water. Food your bird a varied diet and have him checked by a vet (preferably one who specializes in birds) every year.
Birds can be very rewarding pets and take minimal care but they must be provided with a comfortable and safe environment and your companionship in order to thrive. Many birds can live for 20 years or more, so you are making a long commitment when you bring home your new feathered friend. This commitment to care and companionship is well worth it, however, as the rewards of owning these enchanting creatures are many!
http://www.finchinfo.com/
http://home.flash.net/~billgood/basic.ht.
wen i was 10 i got finches they were cute but they made alot of mess so wat my mom did was to get fish net fabric and put it around the cage then sew a thick string around it then tie it to the cage but make sure the fish net material has really small holes
If you have a grate over the grit they will be unable to throw it out of the cage, plus they will stay cleaner by not having to walk through their own feces.
Answers:
I agree with the newspaper advice. It keeps things pretty clean. To help cut down on the odor, you can cut several sheets to size and layer them in the cage, then make removing a sheet every day part of your routine: give them fresh water, food, and pull out a sheet of the soiled paper, revealing a fresh sheet.
Welcome to bird ownership!
welcome to the world of birds. Try using newspaper instead. If you need to put grit in there..which they really don't need, just sprinkle a tiny bit on the floor of the cage.
Yes, they need to be cleaned every couple of days.
Line the cage with newspaper instead.
And the cage shouldnt smell.. Ive had birds for 5 years and never noticed a cage smelling after such a short ammount of time.
This seems quite normal, finches are not the tidiest of birds. They will root about in the bottom of the cage looking for seeds that they have flicked out of the dishes.
there is a new type of cage called a vision by a company called Ferplast which is mainly clear plastc and very little amount of bars this may help with the litter falling out of the cage.
your problem is quit simple really . 1st thing is 'you have to be smarter then the little bird'
> go to any pet suppy store .purchase tiny finch orthopetic shoes
they come in a wide assortment of sizes and colors
average price is $25.00
> your birds (finches) will need to wear the shoes for at least
6 months to a year
> in the meantime get another room mate
Bird Cages.
"Love Your Feathered Friend? Choose the Best Bird Cage Ever!"
Things To Think About Before You Buy A Pet Bird
While a bird is an easy pet to care for, they do require just as much commitment and preparation as any other type of pet. Whether you are buying a small parakeet or an large parrot, you should make sure that you are prepared to care for your new feathered friend properly.
One thing that all pets, including birds need is attention. If your schedule has you working long hours and not spending much time at home, perhaps you should consider a fish tank instead of a bird. A bird cannot be left in it鈥檚 cage alone all the time and still be expected to be friendly on the odd days when you feel like playing with it. Some birds require more interaction than others, but they are social creatures and need you to set aside some time each day to play with them. You can use this time to teach them tricks and strengthen the bond between you.
When considering bringing a bird into your home, you must think about the safety of your new pet. Are there other pets in the house that could be threatening to the bird? Are there tiny nooks and crannies that a bird could get into and hurt himself? Do the other members of your family leave the windows and doors open where the bird could fly out and be lost? All these things must be considered for the safety of your new pet
The purchase and placement of his cage is another consideration. You must buy a cage that is the right size for your bird. Many parrots become quite adept at opening their own cage doors so you should consider how easy the cage is to break out of. The cage should be made out of a safe material and have bars spaced in such a way that the bird cannot get his head stuck in between them. There should be no sharp edges and their should be appropriate food and water dishes as well as perches inside the cage. Cages can be expensive, but don鈥檛 skimp on this as it is your pets new home!
Before you buy the cage, consider where you will be keeping it. It is best if the cage can be in a quiet corner but near family activities as your bird really wants to be part of the family. You should keep it out of direct sunlight, and away from any drafts or anywhere that could have a sudden change in temperature like in front of the heater or air conditions. Avoid placing the cage in the kitchen as fumes and hot surfaces can be hazardous. Be aware that the fumes from nonstick pans can be deadly to a pet bird, so make sure you get rid of all your non stick pans before bringing your bird home. Of course, you will want to keep the cage out of the path of traffic so you need to buy a cage that is the appropriate size for your bird as well as the right size to fit in the intended area.
Depending on the size of your bird, you may want to consider the level of noise that he will produce. Parakeets make little chirpy noises that, for the most part, are not annoying. Conures, on the other hand have a shrill call that goes right through you. Most happy birds will not yell constantly, but it is natural for them to call out at times so make sure you (and your neighbors) can handle the level of noise produced by the bird.
Finally, make sure that you want to commit to the care that is necessary to have a happy healthy bird. You鈥檒l need to clean out the cage daily and make sure you provide fresh food and water. Food your bird a varied diet and have him checked by a vet (preferably one who specializes in birds) every year.
Birds can be very rewarding pets and take minimal care but they must be provided with a comfortable and safe environment and your companionship in order to thrive. Many birds can live for 20 years or more, so you are making a long commitment when you bring home your new feathered friend. This commitment to care and companionship is well worth it, however, as the rewards of owning these enchanting creatures are many!
http://www.finchinfo.com/
http://home.flash.net/~billgood/basic.ht.
wen i was 10 i got finches they were cute but they made alot of mess so wat my mom did was to get fish net fabric and put it around the cage then sew a thick string around it then tie it to the cage but make sure the fish net material has really small holes
If you have a grate over the grit they will be unable to throw it out of the cage, plus they will stay cleaner by not having to walk through their own feces.
Help! My budgees are fighting nonstop!?
One of them is new. How long till they get along? One is male, one female. Large cage, plenty of food and water, lots of cool toys, and they each have their own space. Yet, they are really quarrelsome (acquired one of them yesterday).
Answers:
Unfortunately you have already made a few mistakes. You should never introduce a new bird by putting it in someones Else's house(your first bird's). A second temporary cage is recommended. If the birds are not purchased together, they should be quarantined before trying to put them together. This way if one is ill it will not pass it on to the other. The books usually suggest about a week.
Next problem is putting them together. Your first bird has claimed the entire cage as their house. You have now put in an intruder to invade his/her space. As a result, fighting.
The next thing is male/female relationship. Try to think of these little birds as humans. How would you like to be told to have to live with this person that has been chosen for you. Maybe you don't like him/her. Again fighting.
As you have done these things already, the best you can do now is to wait it out. They may come to accept each other, but keep your eye on them. I have had the experience where the female became vicious and would go after the male and constantly bite his feet until he was removed.
Get your BB gun out.pump it up.and blow the "BUGEESUS" out of the one that starts the trouble.no more fighting.OR..try keeping them covered a little more..(during the daytime)..they calm down in the dark..worth a "shot".lol
The original Budgie is defending its territory.
COMPLETELY rearrange the cage and change out as many of the items as possible and move it to a new location. This will make it seem like a new, different, neutral cage.
Leave the new Budgie in the rearranged cage and put the older one in a separate cage (a small travel cage is OK, it is just temporary, but the bigger the better). Leave them in sight of each other for a few days but do not give them access to one another.
Let them out to play together when you can be around to supervise and see how they do. If they are starting to get along and get in the cage together, they may be OK from there.
Budgies are flock animals and they will want to be together (unless one or both is a very people oriented bird). The original bird just needs to get over the feeling (s)he is being invaded.
Good Luck!
Separate them in 2 separate cages. In adjascent rooms ok. Let them hear each other. If they behave happily let them have the cages nearer, then cages touching..but dont put them together ..not for awhile.. If they arfer acting loving you might try it.
It sounds like the * is frisky with the hen. If the hen is not in breeding condition she won't be interested hm mm sounds familiar . They should settle down
They should settle down within 48 hours, if the female is the new bird the male will be trying to mate. If the male is the new bird the female will be the dominant one as she has territorial advantage. Try to change the cage around and move it to a new position in the room this will then reduce her animosity towards the new male and they will end up feeding each other before too long.
best of luck
Do you maybe have another cage that you could put the new one in? I got my first parakeet 3 years ago. She was the only bird until about April. When I bought a male, I got a bigger cage (for the two of them). I kept her in the smaller, older cage and him in the new one. I put her cage next to his so they could get adjusted to each other. Before too long they were hanging off the sides of their cages trying to check the other one out. After a few days, I put her into the new, bigger cage and they've been getting along great ever since. You need to slowly introduce them to eachother. Would you like it if some stranger just moved into your room and got into your stuff?
Answers:
Unfortunately you have already made a few mistakes. You should never introduce a new bird by putting it in someones Else's house(your first bird's). A second temporary cage is recommended. If the birds are not purchased together, they should be quarantined before trying to put them together. This way if one is ill it will not pass it on to the other. The books usually suggest about a week.
Next problem is putting them together. Your first bird has claimed the entire cage as their house. You have now put in an intruder to invade his/her space. As a result, fighting.
The next thing is male/female relationship. Try to think of these little birds as humans. How would you like to be told to have to live with this person that has been chosen for you. Maybe you don't like him/her. Again fighting.
As you have done these things already, the best you can do now is to wait it out. They may come to accept each other, but keep your eye on them. I have had the experience where the female became vicious and would go after the male and constantly bite his feet until he was removed.
Get your BB gun out.pump it up.and blow the "BUGEESUS" out of the one that starts the trouble.no more fighting.OR..try keeping them covered a little more..(during the daytime)..they calm down in the dark..worth a "shot".lol
The original Budgie is defending its territory.
COMPLETELY rearrange the cage and change out as many of the items as possible and move it to a new location. This will make it seem like a new, different, neutral cage.
Leave the new Budgie in the rearranged cage and put the older one in a separate cage (a small travel cage is OK, it is just temporary, but the bigger the better). Leave them in sight of each other for a few days but do not give them access to one another.
Let them out to play together when you can be around to supervise and see how they do. If they are starting to get along and get in the cage together, they may be OK from there.
Budgies are flock animals and they will want to be together (unless one or both is a very people oriented bird). The original bird just needs to get over the feeling (s)he is being invaded.
Good Luck!
Separate them in 2 separate cages. In adjascent rooms ok. Let them hear each other. If they behave happily let them have the cages nearer, then cages touching..but dont put them together ..not for awhile.. If they arfer acting loving you might try it.
It sounds like the * is frisky with the hen. If the hen is not in breeding condition she won't be interested hm mm sounds familiar . They should settle down
They should settle down within 48 hours, if the female is the new bird the male will be trying to mate. If the male is the new bird the female will be the dominant one as she has territorial advantage. Try to change the cage around and move it to a new position in the room this will then reduce her animosity towards the new male and they will end up feeding each other before too long.
best of luck
Do you maybe have another cage that you could put the new one in? I got my first parakeet 3 years ago. She was the only bird until about April. When I bought a male, I got a bigger cage (for the two of them). I kept her in the smaller, older cage and him in the new one. I put her cage next to his so they could get adjusted to each other. Before too long they were hanging off the sides of their cages trying to check the other one out. After a few days, I put her into the new, bigger cage and they've been getting along great ever since. You need to slowly introduce them to eachother. Would you like it if some stranger just moved into your room and got into your stuff?
help! leash issues!!?
i adopted a 2-year-old lab/rottie mix about 6 weeks ago--he's great at home, but does not seem to be "getting" the leash thing--doesn't go after people or other dogs, but pulls ME down the street--what to do!!?? any suggestions?
i think i might need cesar milan "the dog whisperer"!! :)
Answers:
The Gentle Leader or Halti could prove to be a salvation for you both. If you adopted your dog (good work, by the way!) at a shelter then you might be able to find one there and at a substantially reduced cost since you're an adopter and, hence, a member. Shelters love Gentle Leaders because they are so much more humane that choke or spike collars and the training really doesn't take long at all. Call the shelter.ask about a GL and, perhaps, a behavior consult to ensure that you're using the GL to it's full advantage.
Good luck!
get a submission collar it goes up over their nose nad when he pulls it pulls his nose down. makes hi relize he isnt he boss
go get a good chock collar put a lease on it will tell the dog what it is doing wrong
well you could first go to the store and buy some treats then take him the lease and the teats into your backyard put it on him and if he pulls yank hard and say bad boy so then when you take so steps and he does nothing give him a treat and so on do this about for a week and you will do fine
i thought this was the bird section??
I have trained adult dogs many times that try to pull me down the street. When you go for your walk, every time he pulls, give him a quick tug and say NO! or HEEL!. Do not let him get away with pulling not even once. Persistence is the key. Eventually he will clue in and find that it's no fun to pull. There is also a contraption called "the gentle leader". It goes around the face as sorta like a muzzle but not that bad. It pulls its head to the side every time he pulls against the leash. He definitely won't enjoy pulling if you use it. Hope this helps. Good Luck!
I have a female Rottie who did literally pull me into the street. It is not fun for you to walk a dog like that. Not to mention dangerous for dog and you. Get a Gentle Leader. It is a head harness- and GREATLY will reduce pulling if not completely. They cost about $20.00 but worth EVERY cent. I can walk my dog now! And its enjoyable for us both.
I do not like choke or pinch collars. I think they encourage pulling.
This may sound cruel, but trust me, it's not. Purchase a prong collar for your dog. When he pulls the pressure from the prongs will teach him to stop pulling. He won't hurt himself but he will learn not to pull. Make sure you get the correct size for him and it will do the trick.
take him for a walk with a bag of treats. every 5 feet you go he dosent tug give him one. once he gets the idea you can give him ultra long walks with out being draged down the street yeling, kicking and screaming. what ever you do dont use a choke chain. there crule and your dog. might even come to hate you if you do.
You can get a head harness. They work great. It will take him a few times to get use to wearing it but you will love the results.
When I use a head harness I use two leashes 1 to the head harness and the other to the collar. So if they get out of the head harness you can still have control of your dog.
all you need to do is wip your dogs a*s and show him how he is suppose to walk with you on the street or you can just make him run. here is one way you get in your car hold the leash with your dog outside of the car and go aroud the neighborhood 25 to 30 mph and see how he likes being dragged down the street
This is not that big of a deal. Just get a choke chain or a "No Pull Collar". The choke chain will do what it says, choke the dog untill it releases. Many people think this is cruel but it is a very affective training method. And the "No Pull Collar" goes around the dog's muzzel. The dogs dont have as much strength on the head then the do on the neck so he wont be able to pull you. Good Luck.
I was having the same problem with my German shephard (when he wasn't eating his collar/harness thingy), I finally found a harness on e-bay that is like a normal collar with an attachment that loops around your dog's front legs and attaches on the collar at the breastbone and loops around (like a normal harness) under the front legs and up to where you would usually attach a leash at the back of the neck and the attachments loop through it and then you attach the leash to the remainder. It really works as when he pulls, it tightens up around his legs (that part is well padded on the harness) and don't choke him like the choke collars do, but he gets the same idea. I can't leave it on him 24/7 like a normal collar though as he will eat it, I'm still trying to work that one out.
at least your dog can walk on a leash my chihuahua cant.chock collar should do the trick or a harness i suggest you get your dog train at petsmart
cesar would tell you to put a choke collar on this dog and have a strong leash, when you go out to walk make sure the collar is around the top of his neck, right behind his ears, so that you have
control of his head, everytime he starts pulling, pop his leash and put him into a sit, make sure that the collar stays in the correct position
you must maintain control over a dog this size
i think i might need cesar milan "the dog whisperer"!! :)
Answers:
The Gentle Leader or Halti could prove to be a salvation for you both. If you adopted your dog (good work, by the way!) at a shelter then you might be able to find one there and at a substantially reduced cost since you're an adopter and, hence, a member. Shelters love Gentle Leaders because they are so much more humane that choke or spike collars and the training really doesn't take long at all. Call the shelter.ask about a GL and, perhaps, a behavior consult to ensure that you're using the GL to it's full advantage.
Good luck!
get a submission collar it goes up over their nose nad when he pulls it pulls his nose down. makes hi relize he isnt he boss
go get a good chock collar put a lease on it will tell the dog what it is doing wrong
well you could first go to the store and buy some treats then take him the lease and the teats into your backyard put it on him and if he pulls yank hard and say bad boy so then when you take so steps and he does nothing give him a treat and so on do this about for a week and you will do fine
i thought this was the bird section??
I have trained adult dogs many times that try to pull me down the street. When you go for your walk, every time he pulls, give him a quick tug and say NO! or HEEL!. Do not let him get away with pulling not even once. Persistence is the key. Eventually he will clue in and find that it's no fun to pull. There is also a contraption called "the gentle leader". It goes around the face as sorta like a muzzle but not that bad. It pulls its head to the side every time he pulls against the leash. He definitely won't enjoy pulling if you use it. Hope this helps. Good Luck!
I have a female Rottie who did literally pull me into the street. It is not fun for you to walk a dog like that. Not to mention dangerous for dog and you. Get a Gentle Leader. It is a head harness- and GREATLY will reduce pulling if not completely. They cost about $20.00 but worth EVERY cent. I can walk my dog now! And its enjoyable for us both.
I do not like choke or pinch collars. I think they encourage pulling.
This may sound cruel, but trust me, it's not. Purchase a prong collar for your dog. When he pulls the pressure from the prongs will teach him to stop pulling. He won't hurt himself but he will learn not to pull. Make sure you get the correct size for him and it will do the trick.
take him for a walk with a bag of treats. every 5 feet you go he dosent tug give him one. once he gets the idea you can give him ultra long walks with out being draged down the street yeling, kicking and screaming. what ever you do dont use a choke chain. there crule and your dog. might even come to hate you if you do.
You can get a head harness. They work great. It will take him a few times to get use to wearing it but you will love the results.
When I use a head harness I use two leashes 1 to the head harness and the other to the collar. So if they get out of the head harness you can still have control of your dog.
all you need to do is wip your dogs a*s and show him how he is suppose to walk with you on the street or you can just make him run. here is one way you get in your car hold the leash with your dog outside of the car and go aroud the neighborhood 25 to 30 mph and see how he likes being dragged down the street
This is not that big of a deal. Just get a choke chain or a "No Pull Collar". The choke chain will do what it says, choke the dog untill it releases. Many people think this is cruel but it is a very affective training method. And the "No Pull Collar" goes around the dog's muzzel. The dogs dont have as much strength on the head then the do on the neck so he wont be able to pull you. Good Luck.
I was having the same problem with my German shephard (when he wasn't eating his collar/harness thingy), I finally found a harness on e-bay that is like a normal collar with an attachment that loops around your dog's front legs and attaches on the collar at the breastbone and loops around (like a normal harness) under the front legs and up to where you would usually attach a leash at the back of the neck and the attachments loop through it and then you attach the leash to the remainder. It really works as when he pulls, it tightens up around his legs (that part is well padded on the harness) and don't choke him like the choke collars do, but he gets the same idea. I can't leave it on him 24/7 like a normal collar though as he will eat it, I'm still trying to work that one out.
at least your dog can walk on a leash my chihuahua cant.chock collar should do the trick or a harness i suggest you get your dog train at petsmart
cesar would tell you to put a choke collar on this dog and have a strong leash, when you go out to walk make sure the collar is around the top of his neck, right behind his ears, so that you have
control of his head, everytime he starts pulling, pop his leash and put him into a sit, make sure that the collar stays in the correct position
you must maintain control over a dog this size
HELP! A hawk has flown into our warehouse and he won't leave! How do we get him to fly back out the bay doors?
He is just roosting in the rafters. Loud noises makes him fly around in circles but not out the doors. We have 2 "garage style" doors. Any suggestions?
Answers:
HI
I see a lot of answer here but noe that are 100 right on the money.
First. Its true he may be sick..
Secondly if you live where you are getting some nasty weather right now he may have flown in and is not in a hurry to go
But most likley he got in there when chasing a mouse and now is having trouble getting out.
Be aware .. all Hawks in ALL 50 states are protected birds .. also
Some are endangered as well.
Having said that,.. IF you can leave the doors open and leave it alone then do so.. see if he will go no his own.
I would not try to feed it anything.. CERTAINLY DO NOT put on a leather glove and hold food up!
This is not a trained bird.
I have a link to a local Raptor center we have here,, really good folks they do tons with eagles and other raptors and also
and email and Phone number for an actual Falconer. and educator
Center
http://www.raptoreducationgroup.org.
WI DNR Staff and falconer.. super nice guy..he will help if he can.. Outstanding educator and wildlife person.. really cares.
Chris Cold
715-532-3911 main phone
715-532-4373 His desk phone
christian.cold@dnr.state.wi.us
email =
I urge you to contact a local rescue if he seems ill or is acting oddly ,.. he will not go on h is own. or you can not leave the doors open to let him get out.
DONT catch him yourself. Stress alone can kill birds.
Here is a link that may help you find a local sanctuary..
http://www.greenpeople.org/sanctuary.htm.
Sanctuaries and Wildlife Rescues will help catch the bird safely and make sure its ok and release it. No cost to you!
I hope it all goes well.. Remember do not touch or handle this bird yourself in anyway.. and
VERY IMPORTANT . if it dies you need to call local animal folks so they can make sure it did not die of something contagious to humans of other animals.
I would guess he flew in chasing a mouse on the ground.. and if shown the way out he will go.
But consider the above if he does not. Dont worry if you are not in or near Wisconsin,.. Both listed above will help you if they can.
Try the link for local places as well.
Good Luck
Wismom
Call animal control!
Since you probably have an intercom, you get a hawk call from National Geographic, or from nature stores, that should convince him there's another hawk using that space as a prowling ground. I recommend using it near the end of the day, as everyone has just left: http://shopping.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=ao.
Try this- leave him alone and leave the doors wide open.
Also, he may be ill. You can call animal control or wild life rescue as well. Trying to chase him out will only scare him.
Call a local wildlife rescue group, or the zoo, or animal control . for suggestions.
Poor bird.
I would do the same thing Dr.Max said or What em said
Coax him out with raw meat. Smallish pieces held high by someone seen to be walking out towards outside. The hawk will scent the meat, eyeball it, and want it. I have seen this done before.Tell whoever is carrying it to watch if the Hawk swoops. Tell them to throw the meat in the direction of the doors. The Hawk will swoop thus getting nearer to safety. Keep on chucking pieces until he is out.
Open the pod-bay doors, Hal. Then maybe he'll fly out during the night.
That hawk maybe cleaning out the rodents and other vermin there, unless maybe you're dealing with chickens or other small animals. What I'm saying is maybe you shouldn't be in a big rush to get rid of it. But if that's not the case, find out what it is eating there and move it outside. It may be hunting when your not around. They only eat live animals. The other idea, which seems pretty mean to me would to put some kind of small animal in a cage just outside and see if it ponces on it. I'm not so sure you should be in any rush to get rid of it.
Find a call tape that hunters use to lure predators.
If you guys are watching him, waiting for him to leave, you are probably scaring him. Try leaving for a while, give him some space, but leave the doors open. If the warehouse has valuables in it, just go down the drive or something, but let the hawk be alone for a few minutes so he isn't intimidated. When he doesn't feel threatened, he will find his own way out. If that doesn't work, go buy a mouse at a pet shop and leave it in an open box on the driveway outside the doors.. LOL.. Good luck!! 鈾?
you need a big glove and some raw meat hold it out like those bird controller people and if hes escaped from somewhere which seems likley due to the fact the hawks usually stay well clear of humans he will fly down and take it if not then i suggest you call in the rspca not animal control as they may hurt it otherwise good luck
Call local animal control. DO NOT do anything to harm it. If it's an endangered species, you can get into serious trouble.
Hawks like mice. If you get one of those little furry wind up toy mice and place it in the parking lot but in sight of the open doors,he may see it and be fooled long enough for you to close the doors. If it is a female,you may need to hurry before she decides to build a nest in the rafters..then you will never get rid of her.
pur foo out side it will go to eat then close the doors!
He/she will probably just leave on its own. Can you just leave the doors open?
He's not going to respond to food. He's too freaked out.
All of you standing around staring at him is making him freak too.
Take a break. Everyone out of the warehouse. Turn on all lights and leave the doors open.
Pick one person to go an check on him periodically.
Hawks are sensitive to light. They 'go to sleep' when it gets dark, so make sure the lights stay bright.
Just call animal control or wildlife rehabilitation in your area. Animal control will know who else to call.
I suggest you try and find a Falconer. They will probably have trapping nets or know how to make them or be able to catch this hawk in some way.
http://www.falconry-adventures.com/.
I wish I had two votes for the one above me. Right on!
call animal control, most likely the hawk has found a warm place to live and mate. possible there is alot of rodents in the warehouse for it. animal control will remove and release it.
Answers:
HI
I see a lot of answer here but noe that are 100 right on the money.
First. Its true he may be sick..
Secondly if you live where you are getting some nasty weather right now he may have flown in and is not in a hurry to go
But most likley he got in there when chasing a mouse and now is having trouble getting out.
Be aware .. all Hawks in ALL 50 states are protected birds .. also
Some are endangered as well.
Having said that,.. IF you can leave the doors open and leave it alone then do so.. see if he will go no his own.
I would not try to feed it anything.. CERTAINLY DO NOT put on a leather glove and hold food up!
This is not a trained bird.
I have a link to a local Raptor center we have here,, really good folks they do tons with eagles and other raptors and also
and email and Phone number for an actual Falconer. and educator
Center
http://www.raptoreducationgroup.org.
WI DNR Staff and falconer.. super nice guy..he will help if he can.. Outstanding educator and wildlife person.. really cares.
Chris Cold
715-532-3911 main phone
715-532-4373 His desk phone
christian.cold@dnr.state.wi.us
email =
I urge you to contact a local rescue if he seems ill or is acting oddly ,.. he will not go on h is own. or you can not leave the doors open to let him get out.
DONT catch him yourself. Stress alone can kill birds.
Here is a link that may help you find a local sanctuary..
http://www.greenpeople.org/sanctuary.htm.
Sanctuaries and Wildlife Rescues will help catch the bird safely and make sure its ok and release it. No cost to you!
I hope it all goes well.. Remember do not touch or handle this bird yourself in anyway.. and
VERY IMPORTANT . if it dies you need to call local animal folks so they can make sure it did not die of something contagious to humans of other animals.
I would guess he flew in chasing a mouse on the ground.. and if shown the way out he will go.
But consider the above if he does not. Dont worry if you are not in or near Wisconsin,.. Both listed above will help you if they can.
Try the link for local places as well.
Good Luck
Wismom
Call animal control!
Since you probably have an intercom, you get a hawk call from National Geographic, or from nature stores, that should convince him there's another hawk using that space as a prowling ground. I recommend using it near the end of the day, as everyone has just left: http://shopping.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=ao.
Try this- leave him alone and leave the doors wide open.
Also, he may be ill. You can call animal control or wild life rescue as well. Trying to chase him out will only scare him.
Call a local wildlife rescue group, or the zoo, or animal control . for suggestions.
Poor bird.
I would do the same thing Dr.Max said or What em said
Coax him out with raw meat. Smallish pieces held high by someone seen to be walking out towards outside. The hawk will scent the meat, eyeball it, and want it. I have seen this done before.Tell whoever is carrying it to watch if the Hawk swoops. Tell them to throw the meat in the direction of the doors. The Hawk will swoop thus getting nearer to safety. Keep on chucking pieces until he is out.
Open the pod-bay doors, Hal. Then maybe he'll fly out during the night.
That hawk maybe cleaning out the rodents and other vermin there, unless maybe you're dealing with chickens or other small animals. What I'm saying is maybe you shouldn't be in a big rush to get rid of it. But if that's not the case, find out what it is eating there and move it outside. It may be hunting when your not around. They only eat live animals. The other idea, which seems pretty mean to me would to put some kind of small animal in a cage just outside and see if it ponces on it. I'm not so sure you should be in any rush to get rid of it.
Find a call tape that hunters use to lure predators.
If you guys are watching him, waiting for him to leave, you are probably scaring him. Try leaving for a while, give him some space, but leave the doors open. If the warehouse has valuables in it, just go down the drive or something, but let the hawk be alone for a few minutes so he isn't intimidated. When he doesn't feel threatened, he will find his own way out. If that doesn't work, go buy a mouse at a pet shop and leave it in an open box on the driveway outside the doors.. LOL.. Good luck!! 鈾?
you need a big glove and some raw meat hold it out like those bird controller people and if hes escaped from somewhere which seems likley due to the fact the hawks usually stay well clear of humans he will fly down and take it if not then i suggest you call in the rspca not animal control as they may hurt it otherwise good luck
Call local animal control. DO NOT do anything to harm it. If it's an endangered species, you can get into serious trouble.
Hawks like mice. If you get one of those little furry wind up toy mice and place it in the parking lot but in sight of the open doors,he may see it and be fooled long enough for you to close the doors. If it is a female,you may need to hurry before she decides to build a nest in the rafters..then you will never get rid of her.
pur foo out side it will go to eat then close the doors!
He/she will probably just leave on its own. Can you just leave the doors open?
He's not going to respond to food. He's too freaked out.
All of you standing around staring at him is making him freak too.
Take a break. Everyone out of the warehouse. Turn on all lights and leave the doors open.
Pick one person to go an check on him periodically.
Hawks are sensitive to light. They 'go to sleep' when it gets dark, so make sure the lights stay bright.
Just call animal control or wildlife rehabilitation in your area. Animal control will know who else to call.
I suggest you try and find a Falconer. They will probably have trapping nets or know how to make them or be able to catch this hawk in some way.
http://www.falconry-adventures.com/.
I wish I had two votes for the one above me. Right on!
call animal control, most likely the hawk has found a warm place to live and mate. possible there is alot of rodents in the warehouse for it. animal control will remove and release it.
Help! My new cockatiel hates me.?
He is about 8 months old and was hand raised. At first he was OK with being held - 1 or 2 times when he first came home with me and then he "flew" off my hand (wings are clipped) and rammed into the window. Since then he hisses and bit me really hard when I try to get him out. I know I need to work with him but I'm really freaked about getting bit again. It hurt! I've tried using a towel to get him and now he hates me even more. Any suggestions?
Answers:
Since your cockatiel is going to be a member of your family, you should know how to tame and train it. You will be rewarded with a well-behaved companion who will give you many years of pleasure. The taming and training period can be divided into three categories: getting acquainted, training techniques, and talking or whistling.
Getting Acquainted Put yourself in your cockatiel's place: You have been taken away from your family and placed in a strange cage in a new room with different sights and sounds and no place to hide. There are huge, unfeathered creatures with no beaks making strange noises in front of your cage. How would you feel? Frightened, of course!
As you can see, the first few days should be devoted to getting acquainted. It is very important that you move slowly and talk quietly to your new family member. In a few days, you will probably see that your cockatiel is less frightened 鈥?it won't jump from perch to perch, squawk, hiss, or fluff its feathers as much when you approach or stand near its cage. Try to learn your cockatiel's body language and "speech" 鈥?its signs of aggression as well as its signs of trust. Try to imitate its "trusting" sounds.
Training Techniques After a few days, your cockatiel will still not trust you completely but will tolerate your presence. This is the time to start hand taming your cockatiel. For the next week, try to show your bird that perching on your hand or on a stick can be fun. A bare hand can be used for finches, canaries, and budgerigars, but leather work gloves should be worn with the smaller parrots like the cockatiel.. Since your bird will feel more secure in its cage, start the hand or stick training in the cage, with a few fifteen-minute sessions each day. Using slow movements and a calm, reassuring voice, introduce your hand or stick into the cage. By gently pushing up where the chest joins the legs, you can get your bird to jump onto your finger or your stick. Once you have succeeded in using the stick method for your cockatiel, the next step is to ease your stick-holding hand under your bird's feet while talking softly and gently. Now offer small bits of food with your free hand to distract your cockatiel, then simply slide your hand over, drop the stick softly 鈥?and the bird is on your hand. That contact is a good feeling 鈥?instant communication 鈥?like shaking hands with someone. Continue to reassure your cockatiel as it ponders its new perch 鈥?your hand. After you have tamed your cockatiel, other family members should be encouraged to handle it and feed it treats so that it will become accustomed to many people. You are now well on your way to having a well-socialized, hand-tamed pet. Once your bird feels comfortable on your hand, you should slowly and with gentle reassurances remove it from the cage. It will probably jump off your hand or grab for the bars first. But with patience and determination and with a reassuring voice and a few treats, you will be successful. Again, these sessions should be no more than fifteen minutes, two or three times a day, and they should be handled by only one person so that your cockatiel does not get confused or frightened. The room should be quiet, and all distractions such as toys, mirrors, and bells should be removed during training sessions.
During training sessions:
Close and cover all windows
Close and (if possible) lock all doors
Cover boiling liquids. Better yet, don't cook at this time
Once your cockatiel is hand tamed, it will beg you to take it for rides around on your hand, arm, shoulder, or the top of your head! If your bird tries to nip at your hand, turn your fingers away and push your cockatiel's chin away with your other hand. Some cockatiels do learn the meaning of the word no. Never hit your cockatiel. They do not understand this type of punishment, but they do respond to gentleness and patience.
If your cockatiel flies off your finger when you first take it out of the cage, don't lunge for it like an outfielder chasing a ball. Simply wait until it has perched and then slowly and quietly offer your hand, a stick, or even the cage to it. Offering some treat or fruit is also helpful. If this doesn't work, don't worry. Just leave the cage door open with some fresh goodies inside, and your cockatiel will return to the cage on its own time. If this doesn't work, wait until dark. Your cockatiel will sleep, and you can try your "salesmanship" again in the morning.
Talking Birds of the parrot family 鈥?budgerigars, cockatiels, African greys, macaws, and cockatoos, for example 鈥?can learn to "talk." Actually, they mimic or imitate your speech, the calls and songs of other birds, and even sounds around the house, such as the chimes of a grandfather clock, a banging door, or the ring of a telephone. They seem to enjoy this wonderful talent, and so do their owners. The neighbors are another story.
You should start "speech classes" only after your cockatiel has been tamed and is accustomed to you.
In general, males seem to learn more words and sounds faster than females.
Younger cockatiels are easier to teach, but you may still be able to teach an "old bird new tricks" with patience and kindness.
It is best to remove toys, mirrors, and food cups during the classes.
Cockatiels like routine. Give the lessons at the same time each day (before the cage cover is off in the morning and after it is replaced in the evening.
Single cockatiels are easier to teach than those that have company.
Each lesson should be about fifteen minutes long.
Be sure the "classroom" is quiet, without television, radios, or stereos blaring. If there are other people present, they should be quiet as well.
Cockatiels seem to respond better to the voices of females or children.
It may take one month to one year to teach your cockatiel to speak. Once it utters its first word or phrase, others will come easier and faster. In fact, your cockatiel will love its newfound talent so much that it will rapidly pick up more words. Some cockatiels never learn to talk but make pleasant pets anyhow.
Short words and phrases are best for lessons. A new word should be repeated slowly many times. It should also be repeated whenever you, other family members, or friends pass the cage or T-stand.
Some cockatiels can graduate to the "school of clean tricks" 鈥?learning to put objects in containers, ring bells for a reward, do somersaults, or other delightful show-stopping stunts! If you watch your cockatiel's natural antics, you can adapt simple stunts around them. Be careful not to use any materials or toys that may injure your cockatiel.
If he bites you again, get a fly swatter and beat the crap out of him. That should break him of biting.
It's very east to permenantly affect a bird's attitude towards something. Your bird's bad experience basically hard-wired its little brain to hate the thing it associates with the pain it felt--namely, you. However, all is not lost! :) You might be able to help your bird recover.
Try leaving the cage door open and letting your bird come out on his own. He'll be a lot less likely to bite if he doesn't feel threatened. Instead of offering your hand, which he fears, approach him with your arms at your side. Put your shoulder near him and see if he'll climb on it. Let him climb around on you and get used to being with you. Once he feels safe with you and recognizes that being with you mean being out of his cage and being able to explore, he'll be more friendly towards you. Most important is to let him progress at his own pace. Forcing him to do anything will only make it worse.
I had a cockatiel with a similar problem. He never did sit on my finder again, but he would get on my wrists, shoulders, and head with no problem.
hey..don't feel sad..OK
i think you can search the good cockatiel..
good cockatiel.
Some times birds pick who they want to be friends with. My tiel will open his wings wide when I walk in the house. He/she is so happy to see me that she will jump off the cage to come to me. But when my girl friend walks up to the cage the bird heads to the back side to get away from her. But at times the bird will go right to her. The stupid sun conure will go to both of us with no problems. Reminds you of a puppy dog.
Get some Jet puff sugar free marshmillows and some sugar cane and some pepers the long skinny kind. Your till will like one of them and take these treats with you and offer them. The little guy will start seeing you as a provider of something good. Then every time you are insite he will want you. Just take your time.
Well the good news is you can still work with him to change it, the bad news is you really made him more angry with the towel.
I took in an very old Macaw, She hated women and would hit the cage like a shark. Because I work with birds I expect to he bitten often. And not by a little cocktail either!! You have to except that you will take a few bites, it goes with the turf. The more fear you show, the less likely you will have them strike at you. You have to gather your self and deal with it. I wouldn't trade that Macaw for anything, and all it took was me to show no fear of her.
Follow the advice here, it is good, and remember, no one has EVER died from a cockatiel bite!
Answers:
Since your cockatiel is going to be a member of your family, you should know how to tame and train it. You will be rewarded with a well-behaved companion who will give you many years of pleasure. The taming and training period can be divided into three categories: getting acquainted, training techniques, and talking or whistling.
Getting Acquainted Put yourself in your cockatiel's place: You have been taken away from your family and placed in a strange cage in a new room with different sights and sounds and no place to hide. There are huge, unfeathered creatures with no beaks making strange noises in front of your cage. How would you feel? Frightened, of course!
As you can see, the first few days should be devoted to getting acquainted. It is very important that you move slowly and talk quietly to your new family member. In a few days, you will probably see that your cockatiel is less frightened 鈥?it won't jump from perch to perch, squawk, hiss, or fluff its feathers as much when you approach or stand near its cage. Try to learn your cockatiel's body language and "speech" 鈥?its signs of aggression as well as its signs of trust. Try to imitate its "trusting" sounds.
Training Techniques After a few days, your cockatiel will still not trust you completely but will tolerate your presence. This is the time to start hand taming your cockatiel. For the next week, try to show your bird that perching on your hand or on a stick can be fun. A bare hand can be used for finches, canaries, and budgerigars, but leather work gloves should be worn with the smaller parrots like the cockatiel.. Since your bird will feel more secure in its cage, start the hand or stick training in the cage, with a few fifteen-minute sessions each day. Using slow movements and a calm, reassuring voice, introduce your hand or stick into the cage. By gently pushing up where the chest joins the legs, you can get your bird to jump onto your finger or your stick. Once you have succeeded in using the stick method for your cockatiel, the next step is to ease your stick-holding hand under your bird's feet while talking softly and gently. Now offer small bits of food with your free hand to distract your cockatiel, then simply slide your hand over, drop the stick softly 鈥?and the bird is on your hand. That contact is a good feeling 鈥?instant communication 鈥?like shaking hands with someone. Continue to reassure your cockatiel as it ponders its new perch 鈥?your hand. After you have tamed your cockatiel, other family members should be encouraged to handle it and feed it treats so that it will become accustomed to many people. You are now well on your way to having a well-socialized, hand-tamed pet. Once your bird feels comfortable on your hand, you should slowly and with gentle reassurances remove it from the cage. It will probably jump off your hand or grab for the bars first. But with patience and determination and with a reassuring voice and a few treats, you will be successful. Again, these sessions should be no more than fifteen minutes, two or three times a day, and they should be handled by only one person so that your cockatiel does not get confused or frightened. The room should be quiet, and all distractions such as toys, mirrors, and bells should be removed during training sessions.
During training sessions:
Close and cover all windows
Close and (if possible) lock all doors
Cover boiling liquids. Better yet, don't cook at this time
Once your cockatiel is hand tamed, it will beg you to take it for rides around on your hand, arm, shoulder, or the top of your head! If your bird tries to nip at your hand, turn your fingers away and push your cockatiel's chin away with your other hand. Some cockatiels do learn the meaning of the word no. Never hit your cockatiel. They do not understand this type of punishment, but they do respond to gentleness and patience.
If your cockatiel flies off your finger when you first take it out of the cage, don't lunge for it like an outfielder chasing a ball. Simply wait until it has perched and then slowly and quietly offer your hand, a stick, or even the cage to it. Offering some treat or fruit is also helpful. If this doesn't work, don't worry. Just leave the cage door open with some fresh goodies inside, and your cockatiel will return to the cage on its own time. If this doesn't work, wait until dark. Your cockatiel will sleep, and you can try your "salesmanship" again in the morning.
Talking Birds of the parrot family 鈥?budgerigars, cockatiels, African greys, macaws, and cockatoos, for example 鈥?can learn to "talk." Actually, they mimic or imitate your speech, the calls and songs of other birds, and even sounds around the house, such as the chimes of a grandfather clock, a banging door, or the ring of a telephone. They seem to enjoy this wonderful talent, and so do their owners. The neighbors are another story.
You should start "speech classes" only after your cockatiel has been tamed and is accustomed to you.
In general, males seem to learn more words and sounds faster than females.
Younger cockatiels are easier to teach, but you may still be able to teach an "old bird new tricks" with patience and kindness.
It is best to remove toys, mirrors, and food cups during the classes.
Cockatiels like routine. Give the lessons at the same time each day (before the cage cover is off in the morning and after it is replaced in the evening.
Single cockatiels are easier to teach than those that have company.
Each lesson should be about fifteen minutes long.
Be sure the "classroom" is quiet, without television, radios, or stereos blaring. If there are other people present, they should be quiet as well.
Cockatiels seem to respond better to the voices of females or children.
It may take one month to one year to teach your cockatiel to speak. Once it utters its first word or phrase, others will come easier and faster. In fact, your cockatiel will love its newfound talent so much that it will rapidly pick up more words. Some cockatiels never learn to talk but make pleasant pets anyhow.
Short words and phrases are best for lessons. A new word should be repeated slowly many times. It should also be repeated whenever you, other family members, or friends pass the cage or T-stand.
Some cockatiels can graduate to the "school of clean tricks" 鈥?learning to put objects in containers, ring bells for a reward, do somersaults, or other delightful show-stopping stunts! If you watch your cockatiel's natural antics, you can adapt simple stunts around them. Be careful not to use any materials or toys that may injure your cockatiel.
If he bites you again, get a fly swatter and beat the crap out of him. That should break him of biting.
It's very east to permenantly affect a bird's attitude towards something. Your bird's bad experience basically hard-wired its little brain to hate the thing it associates with the pain it felt--namely, you. However, all is not lost! :) You might be able to help your bird recover.
Try leaving the cage door open and letting your bird come out on his own. He'll be a lot less likely to bite if he doesn't feel threatened. Instead of offering your hand, which he fears, approach him with your arms at your side. Put your shoulder near him and see if he'll climb on it. Let him climb around on you and get used to being with you. Once he feels safe with you and recognizes that being with you mean being out of his cage and being able to explore, he'll be more friendly towards you. Most important is to let him progress at his own pace. Forcing him to do anything will only make it worse.
I had a cockatiel with a similar problem. He never did sit on my finder again, but he would get on my wrists, shoulders, and head with no problem.
hey..don't feel sad..OK
i think you can search the good cockatiel..
good cockatiel.
Some times birds pick who they want to be friends with. My tiel will open his wings wide when I walk in the house. He/she is so happy to see me that she will jump off the cage to come to me. But when my girl friend walks up to the cage the bird heads to the back side to get away from her. But at times the bird will go right to her. The stupid sun conure will go to both of us with no problems. Reminds you of a puppy dog.
Get some Jet puff sugar free marshmillows and some sugar cane and some pepers the long skinny kind. Your till will like one of them and take these treats with you and offer them. The little guy will start seeing you as a provider of something good. Then every time you are insite he will want you. Just take your time.
Well the good news is you can still work with him to change it, the bad news is you really made him more angry with the towel.
I took in an very old Macaw, She hated women and would hit the cage like a shark. Because I work with birds I expect to he bitten often. And not by a little cocktail either!! You have to except that you will take a few bites, it goes with the turf. The more fear you show, the less likely you will have them strike at you. You have to gather your self and deal with it. I wouldn't trade that Macaw for anything, and all it took was me to show no fear of her.
Follow the advice here, it is good, and remember, no one has EVER died from a cockatiel bite!
help wrong sex?
my girlfriend appears to have been duped she wanted a male parrot and the breeder said it was a boy but i know its a girl.
we have a dog a male with quite large testicals,our cat also has tesicles which are smaller but i can feel them.the parrot does not have any.should we take her back or could it be a boy and the bits and bobs drop down later.we are not having a ball what should she do?
Answers:
Stop fondling your pets, pervert.
lmao i don't know anything about birds but that's too funny
I just think it's funny you feel cats and birds up!
birds have their testes inside. alot of times they have to do surgery to find out the sex of a bird.
The only way to sex a bird is to bring it to your vet. The sexual organs are located inside the body. So, you will actually never see the testicles.
Birds are not like dogs and cats. All of their genitalia are inside their bodies. In some species, you can tell gender by color. In others the only was to tell is by DNA testing of feather follicles or have your avian vet use a small endoscope to look inside. You didn't say what kind of parrot it is. We may be able to tell you which category he falls into.
I hope youre serious. You cannot sex a bird by its genetalia since it is internal. Usually the coloring is brighter in a male bird and they make more noise. Why does it matter anyway?
Because Birds are not Mamals, they are not going to have testicles like humans/cats/dogs.
I don't know about parrots, but, with chickens, when they're very young, it's impossible to tell the difference.
I'm sure that if the breeder is reputable, he didn't 'scam' you, you probably have a male parrot.
birds do not have testicles on the outside. Males are brighter in color then the females. If in doubt take the bird to an independent breeder or vet and they can tell you.
The only way you can tell for sure is a blood test. From the outside they are built the same. Or if its a girl she will eventually lay an egg or eggs when she is mature
You can not tell by looking at a bird. Some breeders are have been around long enough that they are a good judge but they still can't tell on most birds. Some birds have colors on the male that the female don't have.
The only real way to find out is go to a vet and have a DNA test ran on it. Or just wait 5 years and see if it produces eggs.
I would be willing to bet if the breeder said it is a male it is. The vet looked at my tiel and said it was a female and after reading up on them I agree because of the markings. Now my conure is a male but I have no real proof but he acts like a male and falls in love with women. Plus he has a squired up forhead. So it is just a guess.
First off, the only way to tell a sex of a parrot is to have it DNA tested, especially with exotic birds. I just got a parrot and this is what they told me. And by reading and hearing on different shows about animals, birds in the wild, normally the female is not as colorful and is normally smaller than a male, so it is somewhat easier to define which is male and female. Unless the person that sold you the parrot, has proof on paper, that it was your parrot that was tested and is a female.there is no way of knowing, without having your parrot DNA tested.male birds do not have testicles you can feel or see. If the seller of the bird just told you it was a female and doesn't have proof for you it was that specific bird that was tested and is a female, I personally would take them to small claims court. Parrots are not cheap pets to own. Also I asked about the DNA testing and here, where I live it cost average of $30 to $40 dollars. If you do go to small claims court, b4 going I personally would have your parrot tested and then.if it is a male.You have your case.altho the seller could say they didn't tell you it was a female, and if on the receipt you got from buying the bird or any other paperwork you may have gotten, if it states on there the parrot was DNA tested and is a female. It could be your word against theirs. Good Luck
~Peace~
a bird doesn't have visible testicles. the way I found out was took him to a bird store and the owner explained to me that males are very narrow in that area but females are wider for the eggs to come out. you can also get a d%26a test but this is kinda costly
Darlene is wrong. Larger birds do not lay eggs unless fertilized. I have had my amazon parrot for 17 years and I still don't know what the sex is! If your girlfriend is concerned about the sex of the bird, get a blood test from the vet.
i cant figure if im male or ?.chirp!
The gonads are inside the body you can't tell this way take it to a vet and he will surgically sex your bird
we have a dog a male with quite large testicals,our cat also has tesicles which are smaller but i can feel them.the parrot does not have any.should we take her back or could it be a boy and the bits and bobs drop down later.we are not having a ball what should she do?
Answers:
Stop fondling your pets, pervert.
lmao i don't know anything about birds but that's too funny
I just think it's funny you feel cats and birds up!
birds have their testes inside. alot of times they have to do surgery to find out the sex of a bird.
The only way to sex a bird is to bring it to your vet. The sexual organs are located inside the body. So, you will actually never see the testicles.
Birds are not like dogs and cats. All of their genitalia are inside their bodies. In some species, you can tell gender by color. In others the only was to tell is by DNA testing of feather follicles or have your avian vet use a small endoscope to look inside. You didn't say what kind of parrot it is. We may be able to tell you which category he falls into.
I hope youre serious. You cannot sex a bird by its genetalia since it is internal. Usually the coloring is brighter in a male bird and they make more noise. Why does it matter anyway?
Because Birds are not Mamals, they are not going to have testicles like humans/cats/dogs.
I don't know about parrots, but, with chickens, when they're very young, it's impossible to tell the difference.
I'm sure that if the breeder is reputable, he didn't 'scam' you, you probably have a male parrot.
birds do not have testicles on the outside. Males are brighter in color then the females. If in doubt take the bird to an independent breeder or vet and they can tell you.
The only way you can tell for sure is a blood test. From the outside they are built the same. Or if its a girl she will eventually lay an egg or eggs when she is mature
You can not tell by looking at a bird. Some breeders are have been around long enough that they are a good judge but they still can't tell on most birds. Some birds have colors on the male that the female don't have.
The only real way to find out is go to a vet and have a DNA test ran on it. Or just wait 5 years and see if it produces eggs.
I would be willing to bet if the breeder said it is a male it is. The vet looked at my tiel and said it was a female and after reading up on them I agree because of the markings. Now my conure is a male but I have no real proof but he acts like a male and falls in love with women. Plus he has a squired up forhead. So it is just a guess.
First off, the only way to tell a sex of a parrot is to have it DNA tested, especially with exotic birds. I just got a parrot and this is what they told me. And by reading and hearing on different shows about animals, birds in the wild, normally the female is not as colorful and is normally smaller than a male, so it is somewhat easier to define which is male and female. Unless the person that sold you the parrot, has proof on paper, that it was your parrot that was tested and is a female.there is no way of knowing, without having your parrot DNA tested.male birds do not have testicles you can feel or see. If the seller of the bird just told you it was a female and doesn't have proof for you it was that specific bird that was tested and is a female, I personally would take them to small claims court. Parrots are not cheap pets to own. Also I asked about the DNA testing and here, where I live it cost average of $30 to $40 dollars. If you do go to small claims court, b4 going I personally would have your parrot tested and then.if it is a male.You have your case.altho the seller could say they didn't tell you it was a female, and if on the receipt you got from buying the bird or any other paperwork you may have gotten, if it states on there the parrot was DNA tested and is a female. It could be your word against theirs. Good Luck
~Peace~
a bird doesn't have visible testicles. the way I found out was took him to a bird store and the owner explained to me that males are very narrow in that area but females are wider for the eggs to come out. you can also get a d%26a test but this is kinda costly
Darlene is wrong. Larger birds do not lay eggs unless fertilized. I have had my amazon parrot for 17 years and I still don't know what the sex is! If your girlfriend is concerned about the sex of the bird, get a blood test from the vet.
i cant figure if im male or ?.chirp!
The gonads are inside the body you can't tell this way take it to a vet and he will surgically sex your bird
help with Senegal parrot?
it turns out that my senegal parrot,is a female she laid an egg ! what can i do ?? what do i need to get?? please no mean comments!! thanks for your help !!
Answers:
females will lay eggs with or without a male. I used to have two female tiels that would pop eggs out all the time! My male senegal is the best. Dont they make just the best pets?
Is there a male in her life ? If not you can throw the egg away. Female birds often do this. But if she has'nt been near a male in the recent past, there won't be a baby bird inside the egg. Sorry. Call a pet store !
Like the person above said, if there is no male, take the egg away as soon as possible. If your female gets attached to the egg and it will obviously die if theres no male, she may get depressed. Please take it out. Good luck.
Yout parrot is probably about two years old and is kept in a well lit room. She may go on to lay three or four eggs, one every other day for a week. Take them away as they will be infertile and you don't want her to become fixated and try and sit them.
It will do her no harm but make sure that she has a good diet and plenty of calcium. Cuttle bone or oyster shell grit is good for this.
Try to reduce the lenghth of time she is lit by shortenng her day.
When she has got artiificial light late into the evening she thinks it is summer so goes into her breeding cycle. If she is not a tame handleable bird you mighjt think about getting a mate for her and giving them a large flight with a nest box.
Make sure she gets plenty of calcium and vitamin D or she could develop osteoporosis
Answers:
females will lay eggs with or without a male. I used to have two female tiels that would pop eggs out all the time! My male senegal is the best. Dont they make just the best pets?
Is there a male in her life ? If not you can throw the egg away. Female birds often do this. But if she has'nt been near a male in the recent past, there won't be a baby bird inside the egg. Sorry. Call a pet store !
Like the person above said, if there is no male, take the egg away as soon as possible. If your female gets attached to the egg and it will obviously die if theres no male, she may get depressed. Please take it out. Good luck.
Yout parrot is probably about two years old and is kept in a well lit room. She may go on to lay three or four eggs, one every other day for a week. Take them away as they will be infertile and you don't want her to become fixated and try and sit them.
It will do her no harm but make sure that she has a good diet and plenty of calcium. Cuttle bone or oyster shell grit is good for this.
Try to reduce the lenghth of time she is lit by shortenng her day.
When she has got artiificial light late into the evening she thinks it is summer so goes into her breeding cycle. If she is not a tame handleable bird you mighjt think about getting a mate for her and giving them a large flight with a nest box.
Make sure she gets plenty of calcium and vitamin D or she could develop osteoporosis
help with black bird?
help with with black bird and no lesbian refrences it flys and its got a feathers its a bird i have got afemale blackbird that i found in my garden she had all her tail feathers pulled out and cant fly i am intending to release soon but i am not sure she can fly very well should i let her go i rang a lot of rescue centres no one was intresting in helping her but i took her in i wasnt going to let her die should i just let i go if i am not sure she can fly that good
Answers:
tie her feet to your finger and let her stretch her wings, do it twice a day for half hour and let her build her muscles up, she'll be fine mate. let her go a.s.a.p. so she doesnt get used to hand feeding.
neighbours cat will sort it out
If you think she is well enough take her out to the country and release her where there is no chance of cats getting her
Did it once with a pigeon and it worked
How politically incorrect.
You should say "Afro-Caribbean lady" Try to throw her out the window because she has dark skin and is female will probably get you a membership of the BNP!!
MY EXPERIENCES WITH BIRDS ( THE FEATHERED VARIETY) IS THAT THEY CAN FLY WITHOUT TAIL FEATHERS BUT CANNOT STEER SO THEY TEND TO BUMP INTO THINGS,MAYBE IT MAY BE BETTER TO WAIT A WHILE UNTIL THEY GROW BACK,IF THEY DON'T SHE'LL PROBABLY A GREAT COMPANION HOPPING ABOUT THE GARDEN
watch her, if she doesnt fly away you can catch her again.
if not, than its her time to go..
Call a Vet maybe he knows what to do.
keep her longer until she is ready to fly.the rescue centres are too full up with little funding.if you feel that she will never be better then you could put her out of her misery but id keep her a few weeks and wait
Ring the RSPB. thay will tell you to let it go ..! there is nothing you can do .. and there right,,,, sorry to say.
have you tried contacting the rspb for advice? Well done you for trying to sort her out.
make shure there no enemy around see if can fly even if it cant fly well it can walk
Try to let her fly in your house .like the biggest room. See how well she does first before letting her go. Birds do need their tail feathers for direction. And also just keep calling the rescue centers.you'll get an answer eventually. Be careful with her..you never know with the bird flue going around. I would have done the same thing as you.I can't stand an animal suffering.
If she can't fly well now then she won't make it in the wild she will get kill by another animal. Try calling your local Vet's and explain the problem to them, maybe they can contact a rescue center that will take over the care of the bird. If it is a Crow or a Raven they are federally protected by Law so you need to be careful about taking in wild birds. If you need any other help please let me know.
Sapphyre
Certified Avian Specialist
http://www.borrowed-rainbow.com.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/borrowedra.
Contact St Tiggywinkles for advice, they are bird and hedgehog experts and will know what to do.
http://www.sttiggywinkles.org
I would keep her a little longer, what a kind person you are
if i was you i would ring up a local rspca or wildlife rescue and take her or have her picked up. DONT RELEASE HER as she cannot survive out there in the open not been able to fly makes her very tasty and easy to a cat!
the local wildlife trust will nurse her back to health and wait for her feathers to grow back. you cannot do this yourself as you havent the facilities.they do and they know whats best.
Let it go, its gonna die of shock soon anyway. Wild birds cannot cope with stress of being captured
Answers:
tie her feet to your finger and let her stretch her wings, do it twice a day for half hour and let her build her muscles up, she'll be fine mate. let her go a.s.a.p. so she doesnt get used to hand feeding.
neighbours cat will sort it out
If you think she is well enough take her out to the country and release her where there is no chance of cats getting her
Did it once with a pigeon and it worked
How politically incorrect.
You should say "Afro-Caribbean lady" Try to throw her out the window because she has dark skin and is female will probably get you a membership of the BNP!!
MY EXPERIENCES WITH BIRDS ( THE FEATHERED VARIETY) IS THAT THEY CAN FLY WITHOUT TAIL FEATHERS BUT CANNOT STEER SO THEY TEND TO BUMP INTO THINGS,MAYBE IT MAY BE BETTER TO WAIT A WHILE UNTIL THEY GROW BACK,IF THEY DON'T SHE'LL PROBABLY A GREAT COMPANION HOPPING ABOUT THE GARDEN
watch her, if she doesnt fly away you can catch her again.
if not, than its her time to go..
Call a Vet maybe he knows what to do.
keep her longer until she is ready to fly.the rescue centres are too full up with little funding.if you feel that she will never be better then you could put her out of her misery but id keep her a few weeks and wait
Ring the RSPB. thay will tell you to let it go ..! there is nothing you can do .. and there right,,,, sorry to say.
have you tried contacting the rspb for advice? Well done you for trying to sort her out.
make shure there no enemy around see if can fly even if it cant fly well it can walk
Try to let her fly in your house .like the biggest room. See how well she does first before letting her go. Birds do need their tail feathers for direction. And also just keep calling the rescue centers.you'll get an answer eventually. Be careful with her..you never know with the bird flue going around. I would have done the same thing as you.I can't stand an animal suffering.
If she can't fly well now then she won't make it in the wild she will get kill by another animal. Try calling your local Vet's and explain the problem to them, maybe they can contact a rescue center that will take over the care of the bird. If it is a Crow or a Raven they are federally protected by Law so you need to be careful about taking in wild birds. If you need any other help please let me know.
Sapphyre
Certified Avian Specialist
http://www.borrowed-rainbow.com.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/borrowedra.
Contact St Tiggywinkles for advice, they are bird and hedgehog experts and will know what to do.
http://www.sttiggywinkles.org
I would keep her a little longer, what a kind person you are
if i was you i would ring up a local rspca or wildlife rescue and take her or have her picked up. DONT RELEASE HER as she cannot survive out there in the open not been able to fly makes her very tasty and easy to a cat!
the local wildlife trust will nurse her back to health and wait for her feathers to grow back. you cannot do this yourself as you havent the facilities.they do and they know whats best.
Let it go, its gonna die of shock soon anyway. Wild birds cannot cope with stress of being captured
help with birds.?
i want to get a bird or pair of birds, but i don't know what kind are good birds to have around. i also have cats, but they aren't allowed in my room, so they may or may not be a problem. does the climate where i live matter?
Answers:
A good bird for 'you'. sounds like it would be a parakeet. If you have cats, and the birds would be spending most of their time, in your room.. a pair of keets would do fine. Keep in mind, that you 'do' have to let them out of the cage, and work with them, so they can get to know you, and their surroundings.. that's very important for them, and their health. If you are thinking of just one. a 'pair' is better.so 'one' doesn't get lonley. If you "have" to get just one.. get it a mirror, so it can 'talk' and 'socialize' with the "bird in the mirror". Make sure wherever you place them in the room, isn't drafty or cold. this can kill a bird, if they catch a draft.
Do some research on-line. Go to a pet shop that specializes in birds. See what is out there. Read some bird magazines. Go to a bird mart or fair. There are lots of breeders and pet owners out there that love to talk about their birds.
Since you have cats you might not want to get birds. Why setup your cats to be bad and your new bird to be killed?
we had a set of ring neck doves they liked to be held and they just sound so pretty when there cooing and easy to care for . the down side they can be messy
Answers:
A good bird for 'you'. sounds like it would be a parakeet. If you have cats, and the birds would be spending most of their time, in your room.. a pair of keets would do fine. Keep in mind, that you 'do' have to let them out of the cage, and work with them, so they can get to know you, and their surroundings.. that's very important for them, and their health. If you are thinking of just one. a 'pair' is better.so 'one' doesn't get lonley. If you "have" to get just one.. get it a mirror, so it can 'talk' and 'socialize' with the "bird in the mirror". Make sure wherever you place them in the room, isn't drafty or cold. this can kill a bird, if they catch a draft.
Do some research on-line. Go to a pet shop that specializes in birds. See what is out there. Read some bird magazines. Go to a bird mart or fair. There are lots of breeders and pet owners out there that love to talk about their birds.
Since you have cats you might not want to get birds. Why setup your cats to be bad and your new bird to be killed?
we had a set of ring neck doves they liked to be held and they just sound so pretty when there cooing and easy to care for . the down side they can be messy
Help what is wrong with Molly my parakeet?
My parakeet sits on the floor of the cage. She will not eat or drink.
I put the lower perch as low as it wiil go and she has got on it a few times but almost fell off. Her head is twitchy. when I put my hand in the cage she will go around in circles instead of getting on the top perch. Help what is wrong? could the food that I have been feeding her cause the problem?
Answers:
I used to work at an avian's vet office, and from your description, your bird is very ill. It was probably not the food, unless you gave her something with avocado, chocolate or caffine. Birds that won't perch and that sit on the bottom of the cage and don't eat are not healthy and VERY sick. Birds do everything they can to mask any kind of injury or illness, which is why it is difficult to know your bird is sick until it's too late or until they are very, very sick and don't have the energy to hide it any more.
Please seek veterinary care immediately. If she's a new bird, it is most likely nothing you did wrong, she was probably sick when you got her. At the very least, consult a veterinarian who specializes in birds.
Keep her warm, in a calm, quiet environment with no bright lights or drafts. You might want to keep a blanket over 1/2 of the cage as well, and see if she'll drink a little bit of Gatorade- that can help get her to drink. Keeping her warm is the most important thing you can do until she is seen by a vet.
Good luck and I'm sorry she's sick, but please know this is NOT nesting behavior, anxiety, or any kind of minor problem- I've seen it dozens of times, and without a vet's care, it is likely she will die. I don't want to scare you or upset you, but I am speaking from experience and as an avian specialist. Especially if she's also having seizures! Again, good luck and take care!
It sounds as though she's sick. I doubt it would be the food you're giving it. I would seek vet advice asap.
She might have hurt herself real bad so probably have to go vets.
----
OR
Force her to have a drink.
Put calpol sugar free 3+ a drop in her mouth with a few drops of water. Do 3 times a day.
That's what i do when one of my birds are ill. It really works in a few day they feel better.
I also put a drop in their water mixed round once a week.
Cheaper then go vets.
She wants to mate and will probibly lay an eeg even though she dose not have a partner.
I think it needs freedom.Try to keep ur MOLLY out of his cage so that he may feel better.Otherwise consult a vet.
You might want to check for mites. They sell spray for parakeets to treat mites. If it's a female, she may be egg bound which can be serious. See a vet.
I am sorry to say she is most likely very ill. Take her to a vet right away if you can. If your bird sits on the cage bottom usually that means she is very sick. Make sure she stays hydrated and is eating. Watch to see if she cleans the poo off of her bottom also. If they don't clean themselves they aren't doing well. Good luck.
Does she put uneaten seeds to the floor?If she does she has a disease.I just read it in a book.
I put the lower perch as low as it wiil go and she has got on it a few times but almost fell off. Her head is twitchy. when I put my hand in the cage she will go around in circles instead of getting on the top perch. Help what is wrong? could the food that I have been feeding her cause the problem?
Answers:
I used to work at an avian's vet office, and from your description, your bird is very ill. It was probably not the food, unless you gave her something with avocado, chocolate or caffine. Birds that won't perch and that sit on the bottom of the cage and don't eat are not healthy and VERY sick. Birds do everything they can to mask any kind of injury or illness, which is why it is difficult to know your bird is sick until it's too late or until they are very, very sick and don't have the energy to hide it any more.
Please seek veterinary care immediately. If she's a new bird, it is most likely nothing you did wrong, she was probably sick when you got her. At the very least, consult a veterinarian who specializes in birds.
Keep her warm, in a calm, quiet environment with no bright lights or drafts. You might want to keep a blanket over 1/2 of the cage as well, and see if she'll drink a little bit of Gatorade- that can help get her to drink. Keeping her warm is the most important thing you can do until she is seen by a vet.
Good luck and I'm sorry she's sick, but please know this is NOT nesting behavior, anxiety, or any kind of minor problem- I've seen it dozens of times, and without a vet's care, it is likely she will die. I don't want to scare you or upset you, but I am speaking from experience and as an avian specialist. Especially if she's also having seizures! Again, good luck and take care!
It sounds as though she's sick. I doubt it would be the food you're giving it. I would seek vet advice asap.
She might have hurt herself real bad so probably have to go vets.
----
OR
Force her to have a drink.
Put calpol sugar free 3+ a drop in her mouth with a few drops of water. Do 3 times a day.
That's what i do when one of my birds are ill. It really works in a few day they feel better.
I also put a drop in their water mixed round once a week.
Cheaper then go vets.
She wants to mate and will probibly lay an eeg even though she dose not have a partner.
I think it needs freedom.Try to keep ur MOLLY out of his cage so that he may feel better.Otherwise consult a vet.
You might want to check for mites. They sell spray for parakeets to treat mites. If it's a female, she may be egg bound which can be serious. See a vet.
I am sorry to say she is most likely very ill. Take her to a vet right away if you can. If your bird sits on the cage bottom usually that means she is very sick. Make sure she stays hydrated and is eating. Watch to see if she cleans the poo off of her bottom also. If they don't clean themselves they aren't doing well. Good luck.
Does she put uneaten seeds to the floor?If she does she has a disease.I just read it in a book.
help please.i think my parakeet is going through the stage that makes them shed and grow new feathers?
my parakeet is shaking and rubbing her head and scatrching her head and her head is looking really weird is this suppose to happen?
how can i make her happier and help her scratch the area's and just wull i can't stand watching her i feel like i can do something wut can i do to helo?
Answers:
hi, if the bottom of the cage looks like someone broke a small pillow, (lots of little feathers) - then yes, your bird is moulting. Like a snake sheds its skin, birds moult - ie. they drop old feathers and grow in new ones. This is seasonal. They look scruffy (and sometimes i think mine actually know they look scruffy) - it is temporary.. the new feathers come in and they look wonderful again.. no worries.
If you are super concerned, then take it to a pet store that knows birds really well, or preferably bird vet.
its called molting.. other than that I cant help you.. sorry
If her head looks sort of spikey this is normal. New feathers are covered with little covers to protect them as they grow. You can help your bird by scratching the feathers on and behind her head to get the little covers off if she allows you to. These are called pin feathers. The feathers on the rest of her body she can preen herself. She will try scratch with her feet on her head if she will not allow you to help. Another bird usually helps preen the feathers on the head.
It's normal what your parakeet is going through is molting.Don't worry it's nateral my parakeets are going through the same thing.All birds molt between the different seasons.So right now they are getting thier Winter feathers.Sorry there is nothing you can do about it.
The above answers are really great- as long as it IS a moult. Here are some warning signs that mean you should get your bird the the vet ASAP for a full, complete check up:
Blood on feathers, feet etc (broken pin or blood feathers)
Bare patches anywhere that there should be feahters (many causes- behavioral, bacterial, mites etc)
Scaly, rough, raised patches around beak, eyes or feet (scaley mites)
Obessive scratching leading to irritated or weeping skin (many causes: behavioral, bacterial, mites etc)
Ratty tail that is very short and does not seem to grow back in (french molt)
Dirty/poopy vent (bum) that may or may not be plucked bare (bacterial or yeast infection)
Listlessness, loss of appetite, fluffed appearance, sitting ont eh bottom of the cage, inability to perch etc
how can i make her happier and help her scratch the area's and just wull i can't stand watching her i feel like i can do something wut can i do to helo?
Answers:
hi, if the bottom of the cage looks like someone broke a small pillow, (lots of little feathers) - then yes, your bird is moulting. Like a snake sheds its skin, birds moult - ie. they drop old feathers and grow in new ones. This is seasonal. They look scruffy (and sometimes i think mine actually know they look scruffy) - it is temporary.. the new feathers come in and they look wonderful again.. no worries.
If you are super concerned, then take it to a pet store that knows birds really well, or preferably bird vet.
its called molting.. other than that I cant help you.. sorry
If her head looks sort of spikey this is normal. New feathers are covered with little covers to protect them as they grow. You can help your bird by scratching the feathers on and behind her head to get the little covers off if she allows you to. These are called pin feathers. The feathers on the rest of her body she can preen herself. She will try scratch with her feet on her head if she will not allow you to help. Another bird usually helps preen the feathers on the head.
It's normal what your parakeet is going through is molting.Don't worry it's nateral my parakeets are going through the same thing.All birds molt between the different seasons.So right now they are getting thier Winter feathers.Sorry there is nothing you can do about it.
The above answers are really great- as long as it IS a moult. Here are some warning signs that mean you should get your bird the the vet ASAP for a full, complete check up:
Blood on feathers, feet etc (broken pin or blood feathers)
Bare patches anywhere that there should be feahters (many causes- behavioral, bacterial, mites etc)
Scaly, rough, raised patches around beak, eyes or feet (scaley mites)
Obessive scratching leading to irritated or weeping skin (many causes: behavioral, bacterial, mites etc)
Ratty tail that is very short and does not seem to grow back in (french molt)
Dirty/poopy vent (bum) that may or may not be plucked bare (bacterial or yeast infection)
Listlessness, loss of appetite, fluffed appearance, sitting ont eh bottom of the cage, inability to perch etc
Help my parrot isn't well!"!?
I've just taken him out of the aquarium and he doesn't look well at all.
Answers:
well you should not have put him in an aquarium and would be fine lol lol xxxxxxxxx try taking some of the water out of his lungs
Ask him what's wrong!
Or call a vet.118 or something.
Maybe try to get some of the water out of his lungs.
yeah ask him, or take him to the vets
take him 2 a vet
Take him to a vet!!
Birds and fish are useless pets! People with no identity often have them because they believe it makes them look cool. In reality they are just dorks like snake and lizard owners. All these pets do is make a mess and smell up a house. Besides. . . I'm sure fish, birds, lizard, and snakes aren't too thrilled about living in a box. As sting said. . "Free free . . set them free".
.Maybe he's just pinning
Give him the kiss of life - quick.
Polly wanna cracker?
.As sick as a parrot ehhhh??
If it's a parrot fish, quick! Put him back in!
If he has feathers though, use a hairdryer on him to perk the little fella up .
the fact that he was in an aquarium is probably the answer.
aquarium?no wonder he is not to well,or did you mean parrot fish.
Honestly, all jokes aside, take him to an avian vet immediately - you need a bird cage for him also.
he has past on, he is demised, he is a dead parrot.
Feed him to the cat
Duh no aquariums for birds. Get serious.
you forgot to leave his snorkel out again didn't you!
Answers:
well you should not have put him in an aquarium and would be fine lol lol xxxxxxxxx try taking some of the water out of his lungs
Ask him what's wrong!
Or call a vet.118 or something.
Maybe try to get some of the water out of his lungs.
yeah ask him, or take him to the vets
take him 2 a vet
Take him to a vet!!
Birds and fish are useless pets! People with no identity often have them because they believe it makes them look cool. In reality they are just dorks like snake and lizard owners. All these pets do is make a mess and smell up a house. Besides. . . I'm sure fish, birds, lizard, and snakes aren't too thrilled about living in a box. As sting said. . "Free free . . set them free".
.Maybe he's just pinning
Give him the kiss of life - quick.
Polly wanna cracker?
.As sick as a parrot ehhhh??
If it's a parrot fish, quick! Put him back in!
If he has feathers though, use a hairdryer on him to perk the little fella up .
the fact that he was in an aquarium is probably the answer.
aquarium?no wonder he is not to well,or did you mean parrot fish.
Honestly, all jokes aside, take him to an avian vet immediately - you need a bird cage for him also.
he has past on, he is demised, he is a dead parrot.
Feed him to the cat
Duh no aquariums for birds. Get serious.
you forgot to leave his snorkel out again didn't you!
Help my parakeet (budgie)! I was checking a sore on one foot, and she got the other claw tangled in .?
the towel I had her wrapped in. One of the claws came off, and I can't get it to stop bleeding. I've tried pinching it, putting styptic powder (i use cornstarch) on it, etc, and it won't stop bleeding. I don't think she'll live thru the night but I can't afford an emergency vet on a sunday night--even for euthanizing her. Any advice would be helpful, esp from vets and bird people!
Answers:
Oh Sh*t!
OK, I'll walk you through what I can.
First, pinch that toe nail tight for at least 3 minutes. Use something like a scrap of toilet paper so that when you let go, the clot does not come off stuck to your finger.
If you have someone at home that can go to the drug store, look in the animal section for a product called 'quick stop'- it's to stop bleeding on nails- (it's also at pet stores, but it's late) If you can find it, pack the bleeding tip with it.
Also, in the mens shaving products there is often a type of 'styptic' powder or stick, for sealing shaving cuts. You can try that although I do not know much about it.
AS A LAST RESORT- hold her gently, use your fingers to clamp off the blood flow to her toe, leaving the end exposed and wipe it free of wet blood. Put a tiny drop of super glue on it. Let it dry before you let go of her foot. It will burn and hurt, but it is similar to surgical glue. I am not sure if there is an over the counter version of surgical glue available (I've never had to buy it.) but super glue will work in a pinch.
Then, keep her warm. Keep alight on her cage tonight so she can be awake to eat and drink- is she's lost blood she needs calories and fluids.
Good luck to you.
try ice.
Have you tried flour? Sometimes that works better. Here is some more information. It suggests pepper. I have never heard of that before, but anything is worth a try. I hope it helps. I hope she will be ok. Good luck to both of you.
Answers:
Oh Sh*t!
OK, I'll walk you through what I can.
First, pinch that toe nail tight for at least 3 minutes. Use something like a scrap of toilet paper so that when you let go, the clot does not come off stuck to your finger.
If you have someone at home that can go to the drug store, look in the animal section for a product called 'quick stop'- it's to stop bleeding on nails- (it's also at pet stores, but it's late) If you can find it, pack the bleeding tip with it.
Also, in the mens shaving products there is often a type of 'styptic' powder or stick, for sealing shaving cuts. You can try that although I do not know much about it.
AS A LAST RESORT- hold her gently, use your fingers to clamp off the blood flow to her toe, leaving the end exposed and wipe it free of wet blood. Put a tiny drop of super glue on it. Let it dry before you let go of her foot. It will burn and hurt, but it is similar to surgical glue. I am not sure if there is an over the counter version of surgical glue available (I've never had to buy it.) but super glue will work in a pinch.
Then, keep her warm. Keep alight on her cage tonight so she can be awake to eat and drink- is she's lost blood she needs calories and fluids.
Good luck to you.
try ice.
Have you tried flour? Sometimes that works better. Here is some more information. It suggests pepper. I have never heard of that before, but anything is worth a try. I hope it helps. I hope she will be ok. Good luck to both of you.
help my bird is sick help please?
my parakeet is sick i have had her for over 2 months and she is normal singing but now all she wants to do is sit in her food bowl.. she won't eat she has no engery or nothing.. she is just sleeping the all time.. help please could a reguluar vet help me just help please
Answers:
Birds are the best at masking illnesses. they have to be in order to survive from predators and avoid being attacked by other birds. When a bird is just sitting in the food dish sleeping, there isn't anything you can do ~ it's too late.
Birds do show signs of illness before they become THIS sick, but if you don't know what you are looking for it's very easy to miss . so don't feel bad. I'll make a list of things to look for:
-tail bobbing up and down as she breathes
-changes in poop
-changes in hygiene (sick birds stop cleaning themselves sometimes)
-listless
-drainage from nostrils or eyes
-sleeping on two feet instead of one (if this is unusual for the bird)
-sitting all fluffy and puffed up
-sitting crouched on the perch
-not playing with toys
-not moving much
-over-grown beak
Birds need to be kept away from drafts (floors, windows, doorways, vents) and away from kitchens (due to temperatore fluctuations and teflon). Scented candles will cause breathing breathing problems, as well as other spray cleaners or scented products like Glade, Lysol or even hairspray.
Some folks are saying she may be egg bound. If she is, her abdomen area will be larger than normal. If she is simply trying to nest, she shouldn't be sleepy and lethargic. Birds that are nesting are sitting a lot yes, but they are alert!
I should also mention that birds will actually eat on their deathbed. If you see her eating, it doesn't mean anything.
I don't mean to be pessimistic or anything, I just know birds. Cover her up and keep her warm. That's it. She may have been sick when you got her too. you haven't had her long at all.
Its possible she's sick but a regular vet won't be able to tell you anything. You need an avian vet. There are several diseases that can cause this and a few can be fatal. Regular vets usually don't know much about birds. Don't trust one that claims to be competent with birds, make sure they were already listed as an avian specialist.
She may be old (you never know how old they are when you buy them). Animals often have a somewhat sudden drop off in health when they reach old age.
I think the most likely explanation is that she is trying to nest and lay eggs. She probably wants a mate. Get her a little nesting basket and put some straw or fibers in there and see what she does. If she is interested get her a mate and she'll be happy again. If not, I would get her to a vet.
That happened with a budgie that I had. Try adding vitamins to the water supply. If that doesn't help, it might be egg bound (an unfertilized egg might be stuck up inside her). Hopefully someone else can help you.
you can call your local vet and ask the desk for information
She may be egg bound, you need to take her to a vet right away. She could die. Even if you don't have a male, sometimes females lay infertile eggs. A regular vet might be able to help you, just call them and make sure before you take your bird to them. An avian and exotic vet would be much better though. Good Luck!
go 2 a vet honey(por birds) i sorry sweetie pie
this site might help
You need an avian vet. Try feeding spray millet birds really love it. If he doesn't eat that get him to a vet quick.
Try taking her to the vet.See what they say
I am a regular vet and despite the lack of confidence that others in the room have in me, I can tell you 2 things. 1) If a bird is acting sick it is VERY serious and IMPERATIVE that you seek help IMMEDIATELY.
2) Nobody on-line can diagnose, offer a treatment plan, or do ANYTHING else without having a thorough exam to gain more information than "my bird's sick"
call somebody immediately
-a veterinarian
It does sound as though you need to get your bird to an avian vet as soon as possible. They will probably do some blood work to see what is going on and how they can help. Birds can get critically ill before you are aware that they are even under the weather. Keep your bird warm with plenty of it's favorite food and fresh water available.and get it to the bird doctor!
Answers:
Birds are the best at masking illnesses. they have to be in order to survive from predators and avoid being attacked by other birds. When a bird is just sitting in the food dish sleeping, there isn't anything you can do ~ it's too late.
Birds do show signs of illness before they become THIS sick, but if you don't know what you are looking for it's very easy to miss . so don't feel bad. I'll make a list of things to look for:
-tail bobbing up and down as she breathes
-changes in poop
-changes in hygiene (sick birds stop cleaning themselves sometimes)
-listless
-drainage from nostrils or eyes
-sleeping on two feet instead of one (if this is unusual for the bird)
-sitting all fluffy and puffed up
-sitting crouched on the perch
-not playing with toys
-not moving much
-over-grown beak
Birds need to be kept away from drafts (floors, windows, doorways, vents) and away from kitchens (due to temperatore fluctuations and teflon). Scented candles will cause breathing breathing problems, as well as other spray cleaners or scented products like Glade, Lysol or even hairspray.
Some folks are saying she may be egg bound. If she is, her abdomen area will be larger than normal. If she is simply trying to nest, she shouldn't be sleepy and lethargic. Birds that are nesting are sitting a lot yes, but they are alert!
I should also mention that birds will actually eat on their deathbed. If you see her eating, it doesn't mean anything.
I don't mean to be pessimistic or anything, I just know birds. Cover her up and keep her warm. That's it. She may have been sick when you got her too. you haven't had her long at all.
Its possible she's sick but a regular vet won't be able to tell you anything. You need an avian vet. There are several diseases that can cause this and a few can be fatal. Regular vets usually don't know much about birds. Don't trust one that claims to be competent with birds, make sure they were already listed as an avian specialist.
She may be old (you never know how old they are when you buy them). Animals often have a somewhat sudden drop off in health when they reach old age.
I think the most likely explanation is that she is trying to nest and lay eggs. She probably wants a mate. Get her a little nesting basket and put some straw or fibers in there and see what she does. If she is interested get her a mate and she'll be happy again. If not, I would get her to a vet.
That happened with a budgie that I had. Try adding vitamins to the water supply. If that doesn't help, it might be egg bound (an unfertilized egg might be stuck up inside her). Hopefully someone else can help you.
you can call your local vet and ask the desk for information
She may be egg bound, you need to take her to a vet right away. She could die. Even if you don't have a male, sometimes females lay infertile eggs. A regular vet might be able to help you, just call them and make sure before you take your bird to them. An avian and exotic vet would be much better though. Good Luck!
go 2 a vet honey(por birds) i sorry sweetie pie
this site might help
You need an avian vet. Try feeding spray millet birds really love it. If he doesn't eat that get him to a vet quick.
Try taking her to the vet.See what they say
I am a regular vet and despite the lack of confidence that others in the room have in me, I can tell you 2 things. 1) If a bird is acting sick it is VERY serious and IMPERATIVE that you seek help IMMEDIATELY.
2) Nobody on-line can diagnose, offer a treatment plan, or do ANYTHING else without having a thorough exam to gain more information than "my bird's sick"
call somebody immediately
-a veterinarian
It does sound as though you need to get your bird to an avian vet as soon as possible. They will probably do some blood work to see what is going on and how they can help. Birds can get critically ill before you are aware that they are even under the weather. Keep your bird warm with plenty of it's favorite food and fresh water available.and get it to the bird doctor!
Help me please?
Are Parakeets supposed to be friendly, you know and become your close companion?
Answers:
Yes, Parakeets can become very friendly. However if this is what you want I suggest having only one bird. The bird will see you as their flock but if you have more than one they will look to each other. You also need to be patient and realize that it may take over a year for your bird to really trust you. Take your time, start by just putting you hand in the cage and over time let it get closer to the bird. You may also want to try holding out a small perch and having them get use to that. Spend time with your bird everyday they are social creatures and need that time with you.
If you want it to be social with you then only have ONE bird.otherwise they socialize with each other and not with human owners as much
Hey andy, it really matters on how you treat your parakeet. Example? I used to have a rare parakeet called gosha. MAN! I loved him with all my heart. He bit all of the other people he dint know, except me and my family. Cause we gained his trust. So it really matters how you treat your parakeet.
Yes parakeets are very friendly, but you can't cuddle them or keep them close, the most you can do is pet them gently, teach them to talk, and watch them fly around and play, just keep the windows closed. But if you realize they are delicate, the are fun.
I had a parakeet which I bought was still small and I had to feed it with an eye drop like thing, so I think he thought I was his mother. When he was a baby I kept him in my shirt pocket and walked around but as he got older, I perched him on my shoulder and rode my bicycle and had no problem.
they can be if you spend time with them and they had to be hand fed when they were babys
Answers:
Yes, Parakeets can become very friendly. However if this is what you want I suggest having only one bird. The bird will see you as their flock but if you have more than one they will look to each other. You also need to be patient and realize that it may take over a year for your bird to really trust you. Take your time, start by just putting you hand in the cage and over time let it get closer to the bird. You may also want to try holding out a small perch and having them get use to that. Spend time with your bird everyday they are social creatures and need that time with you.
If you want it to be social with you then only have ONE bird.otherwise they socialize with each other and not with human owners as much
Hey andy, it really matters on how you treat your parakeet. Example? I used to have a rare parakeet called gosha. MAN! I loved him with all my heart. He bit all of the other people he dint know, except me and my family. Cause we gained his trust. So it really matters how you treat your parakeet.
Yes parakeets are very friendly, but you can't cuddle them or keep them close, the most you can do is pet them gently, teach them to talk, and watch them fly around and play, just keep the windows closed. But if you realize they are delicate, the are fun.
I had a parakeet which I bought was still small and I had to feed it with an eye drop like thing, so I think he thought I was his mother. When he was a baby I kept him in my shirt pocket and walked around but as he got older, I perched him on my shoulder and rode my bicycle and had no problem.
they can be if you spend time with them and they had to be hand fed when they were babys
help me on my finches!please!?
my zebra finch (the girl) is loosing her feathers on the neck part and im seeing a transparent bag like thing that contains little things inside. i dont know whats happening please help and explain it to me.
Answers:
I don't know without actually seeing it, but it's probably her gizzard. When birds eat food itgoes into the gizzard first which is in the neck. You are more than likely seeing that while it has seed in it, which will make it bumby looking.
She may have mites. Males sometimes over preen each other, but that does not explain the strange sack. You should let an avian Dr. Look at that.
you need to take your birdy to the vet !
this sounds like parasites to me .
ive never been a bird person , so i realy dont know whats normal for them , BUT if shes lossing feathers , and it appears that something in living off her skin ,, thats common sence .
IT AINT NORMAL , good luck , hope youget her better soon
If you have a pair of finches (male and female)
the male will sometimes pick at the females head and neck causing loss of feathers. This is done when he is trying to get her to mate.
Put a nest in the cage and some nesting materials on the floor of the cage and it will keep the male busy building. You will probably
have eggs in a short time and baby finches in about 18-21 days. The sack you see or bag as you call it is her crop. This is like her stomach. Birds don't have stomachs like us but that pouch you saw. This is where the seeds go and from there are ground up to furnish food for her survival.
If you don't want her being picked on you will have to separate the two birds. Finches are very social birds and are happiest together.
It is a lot of fun to see the baby finches hatch and grow up.
Good luck.
Take the advice of Simbasega.It's spot-on
Answers:
I don't know without actually seeing it, but it's probably her gizzard. When birds eat food itgoes into the gizzard first which is in the neck. You are more than likely seeing that while it has seed in it, which will make it bumby looking.
She may have mites. Males sometimes over preen each other, but that does not explain the strange sack. You should let an avian Dr. Look at that.
you need to take your birdy to the vet !
this sounds like parasites to me .
ive never been a bird person , so i realy dont know whats normal for them , BUT if shes lossing feathers , and it appears that something in living off her skin ,, thats common sence .
IT AINT NORMAL , good luck , hope youget her better soon
If you have a pair of finches (male and female)
the male will sometimes pick at the females head and neck causing loss of feathers. This is done when he is trying to get her to mate.
Put a nest in the cage and some nesting materials on the floor of the cage and it will keep the male busy building. You will probably
have eggs in a short time and baby finches in about 18-21 days. The sack you see or bag as you call it is her crop. This is like her stomach. Birds don't have stomachs like us but that pouch you saw. This is where the seeds go and from there are ground up to furnish food for her survival.
If you don't want her being picked on you will have to separate the two birds. Finches are very social birds and are happiest together.
It is a lot of fun to see the baby finches hatch and grow up.
Good luck.
Take the advice of Simbasega.It's spot-on
Help me catch my chickens!! Please?
I had 3 chickens---two little babies and one young chicken--all males. They always stayed in the yard. The young chicken would roost in the woodline at night, and the babies in their cage, but during the day they always stayed in the yard.
Someone gave me a baby hen and all of a sudden my chickens have gone wild! Seriously! The first night she was there, I went out to put them in the cage, and they were no where to be found. Since then (it's been a week), I've only seen them twice! And they go crazy if I get anywhere near them! I used to hold them a lot! I don't get it.
Anyway, I need to catch them, and have them stay in the coop for a while until they get the idea that the yard is home. But I can't catch them! Any ideas?
Answers:
Okay, I've had a bunch of hens, no roosters. Mine have a pen and a coop and get to "free-range" my yard for a little while each day. Seems like adding the hen really was the problem. If it were me, I'd set out something really irresistible in a low-sided pan so they can see what's in it (I use round cake pans). Watermelon and cantaloupe will have mine breaking their necks to get to it. Then I'd try to corner them one at a time, with a partner if possible. I've never had this problem as they always run into their coop at night. Oh, and contrary to what someone else said, mine have remained really good pets even after sexual maturity (perhaps because there are no roosters.) Good luck, I sure hope you can lure them back before a predator gets any.
If your aim is good, you can probably tie a light cage to a rope catch them if te cage were a lasso, but its a slim chance. Btw, you might want to seperate them.
contact KFC . I am certain they will help
shotgun should do the trick.
We tried this, kinda worked but usually only 1 a day, they got too smart, but you gotta be quick. Get some dog food, or something they really like. Put it in a big dog cage, (we used one of those plastic airplane carrier pet kennels) put the food in and when they go in close the door. Good luck and don't get pecked lol
And not to sound ignorant, but they probably got all wild because you threw a gal in the bunch.
Hmm. A big fishing net, or get someone to help herd them into a mosquito net.
Or maybe a big blanket and throw it over them, one at a time? The blanket might confuse or slow them down.
Or just take the hen out and they should settle down.
Good luck :-)
Use a fish net with a long pole and after you catch them build a little pen for them keep them in there for like 1 hour so they can call it home once you let them come out they'll always go back in that little pen. Their just like pigeons they always go back home.
Look for an elfish boy with a green hat that wanders around town swinging his wood sword. His name is Link he'll get your chickens back where they belong. Make sure you have some rupees or something else useful for his quest to repay him.
mebbe a food trial like hansel and gretal. get them in and keep
em in befor something eats them. dont forget their brains are real
teeny. not the smartest of the bird groups. i have lots of cats that come and go in the neighborhood, sometimes i get one that upsets the whole group, cat-stress, i end up having to let that
one go.
I used to raise chickens, ducks, and turkeys (not all at the same time). I can tell you from expirenece that once they hit sexual maturity they do grow crazy and really cease to be good pets any longer, like i used to have a little pullet (baby hen) the was a bantam (small breed) id put her on my shoulder and walk around the house w/ her, she even drink water if i held a cup up to her!, but as soon as she had paired she became all crazy like and wouldnt do it anymore, same w/ my turkey he was really nice and sweet till he hit maturity, then he attack you even if you went in his pen to refill his water!! plus he used to be able to be let out but after that hed run halfway dwn the block and we have to go out and chase him every night w/ a bowl of feed to gethim back home, If youve got a barn or are able to make an enclosed pen id suggest this, here it snows too much and the roof on the pen'd collapse so i tied him via foot to a sting in the center of his pen so he couldnt escape, but this isnt really a good idea, just somthing i HAD to do in a pinch, My best advice is to give up on them as being handle-able pets and if youve got a large enough yard then they should be fine living as free range, just put there food next to the cages or where you want them to come to most of the time and they shouldnt stray TOO far from that. If you really do want them secure though id suggest builng a pen, for four chickes id say an 8x8 should be plenty, and not to expensive to build just use those gren posts, and chicken wire w/ some sort of netting over top, make sure the netting is stretched tight though so they cant get tangled when they "test" it out the first few times. The only other thing with freerange though is chickenhawks.if theyre not native to your area, good your lucky, but my buddy lost a whole flock of freerange (about 16 in all!) to just one family (3birds) of chicken hawks! they wernt even in the area till he let them go free range, then the hawks moved right in to the edge of his woods, within a month.no more chickens. As for catching the ones you have now, just put out food and wait, theyll show up eventually and if you and a friend tag-team them into a corner you should be able to get them, itll probly only be one at a time and expect a workout and several failed attempts but chickens are dumb so try to use your brain not your legs (as therye MUCH quicker then you im sure youve learned :) either rate good luck and e-mail me if you have anymore questions, id be happy to help
Oh and FYI stay w/ chickens.turkeys are the STUPIDEST animals alive, I had my chicks almost die cuz they were too stupid to figure out where the water was when i switched it to a new container, plus theyll stand in one place so long in winter that there feet'll freeze to the ground.nothing like standing out in a noreaster trying to defrost your turkey! lol
hope this helps :)
Chickens will go anywhere for food, call them to get their attention and let them see you drop food near their cage then put a big pile in the cage, chickens cant resist a big pile of food.
Step back and let them come over.
If they wont come over, do the same thing every day at the same time and they will begin to trust you.
But dont try to grab or chase them until they are all in the cage or you will scare them away.
what you need to do is watch them to see where they sleep, after it gets dark, just shine the flashlight in their eyes and go in and pick them up
then keep them cages until they become more tame
Someone gave me a baby hen and all of a sudden my chickens have gone wild! Seriously! The first night she was there, I went out to put them in the cage, and they were no where to be found. Since then (it's been a week), I've only seen them twice! And they go crazy if I get anywhere near them! I used to hold them a lot! I don't get it.
Anyway, I need to catch them, and have them stay in the coop for a while until they get the idea that the yard is home. But I can't catch them! Any ideas?
Answers:
Okay, I've had a bunch of hens, no roosters. Mine have a pen and a coop and get to "free-range" my yard for a little while each day. Seems like adding the hen really was the problem. If it were me, I'd set out something really irresistible in a low-sided pan so they can see what's in it (I use round cake pans). Watermelon and cantaloupe will have mine breaking their necks to get to it. Then I'd try to corner them one at a time, with a partner if possible. I've never had this problem as they always run into their coop at night. Oh, and contrary to what someone else said, mine have remained really good pets even after sexual maturity (perhaps because there are no roosters.) Good luck, I sure hope you can lure them back before a predator gets any.
If your aim is good, you can probably tie a light cage to a rope catch them if te cage were a lasso, but its a slim chance. Btw, you might want to seperate them.
contact KFC . I am certain they will help
shotgun should do the trick.
We tried this, kinda worked but usually only 1 a day, they got too smart, but you gotta be quick. Get some dog food, or something they really like. Put it in a big dog cage, (we used one of those plastic airplane carrier pet kennels) put the food in and when they go in close the door. Good luck and don't get pecked lol
And not to sound ignorant, but they probably got all wild because you threw a gal in the bunch.
Hmm. A big fishing net, or get someone to help herd them into a mosquito net.
Or maybe a big blanket and throw it over them, one at a time? The blanket might confuse or slow them down.
Or just take the hen out and they should settle down.
Good luck :-)
Use a fish net with a long pole and after you catch them build a little pen for them keep them in there for like 1 hour so they can call it home once you let them come out they'll always go back in that little pen. Their just like pigeons they always go back home.
Look for an elfish boy with a green hat that wanders around town swinging his wood sword. His name is Link he'll get your chickens back where they belong. Make sure you have some rupees or something else useful for his quest to repay him.
mebbe a food trial like hansel and gretal. get them in and keep
em in befor something eats them. dont forget their brains are real
teeny. not the smartest of the bird groups. i have lots of cats that come and go in the neighborhood, sometimes i get one that upsets the whole group, cat-stress, i end up having to let that
one go.
I used to raise chickens, ducks, and turkeys (not all at the same time). I can tell you from expirenece that once they hit sexual maturity they do grow crazy and really cease to be good pets any longer, like i used to have a little pullet (baby hen) the was a bantam (small breed) id put her on my shoulder and walk around the house w/ her, she even drink water if i held a cup up to her!, but as soon as she had paired she became all crazy like and wouldnt do it anymore, same w/ my turkey he was really nice and sweet till he hit maturity, then he attack you even if you went in his pen to refill his water!! plus he used to be able to be let out but after that hed run halfway dwn the block and we have to go out and chase him every night w/ a bowl of feed to gethim back home, If youve got a barn or are able to make an enclosed pen id suggest this, here it snows too much and the roof on the pen'd collapse so i tied him via foot to a sting in the center of his pen so he couldnt escape, but this isnt really a good idea, just somthing i HAD to do in a pinch, My best advice is to give up on them as being handle-able pets and if youve got a large enough yard then they should be fine living as free range, just put there food next to the cages or where you want them to come to most of the time and they shouldnt stray TOO far from that. If you really do want them secure though id suggest builng a pen, for four chickes id say an 8x8 should be plenty, and not to expensive to build just use those gren posts, and chicken wire w/ some sort of netting over top, make sure the netting is stretched tight though so they cant get tangled when they "test" it out the first few times. The only other thing with freerange though is chickenhawks.if theyre not native to your area, good your lucky, but my buddy lost a whole flock of freerange (about 16 in all!) to just one family (3birds) of chicken hawks! they wernt even in the area till he let them go free range, then the hawks moved right in to the edge of his woods, within a month.no more chickens. As for catching the ones you have now, just put out food and wait, theyll show up eventually and if you and a friend tag-team them into a corner you should be able to get them, itll probly only be one at a time and expect a workout and several failed attempts but chickens are dumb so try to use your brain not your legs (as therye MUCH quicker then you im sure youve learned :) either rate good luck and e-mail me if you have anymore questions, id be happy to help
Oh and FYI stay w/ chickens.turkeys are the STUPIDEST animals alive, I had my chicks almost die cuz they were too stupid to figure out where the water was when i switched it to a new container, plus theyll stand in one place so long in winter that there feet'll freeze to the ground.nothing like standing out in a noreaster trying to defrost your turkey! lol
hope this helps :)
Chickens will go anywhere for food, call them to get their attention and let them see you drop food near their cage then put a big pile in the cage, chickens cant resist a big pile of food.
Step back and let them come over.
If they wont come over, do the same thing every day at the same time and they will begin to trust you.
But dont try to grab or chase them until they are all in the cage or you will scare them away.
what you need to do is watch them to see where they sleep, after it gets dark, just shine the flashlight in their eyes and go in and pick them up
then keep them cages until they become more tame
Help me be a good mourning dove mommy ?驴?
I found this little (looks differnt to a mourning dove (a little) ) and i waited a good bit to see if the parents would come git it , but they never did so i decided to adopt it !
Hmmm , but i have no idea how to raise it ! : (
So i would greatly apreciate some hlep !
Answers:
I have a white dove and 3 ringneck doves. Baby doves need to be tube fed. The parents open their beak and the baby doves put their whole head in while the parents bring up their food into their throats. If the baby dove has all of it's feathers it may be able to eat on it's own. Any wild bird seed or go to your pet store and get dove food. I usually call Wildlife Conservation and they will take the bird or recommend someone who will. If in AZ they have people who just volunteer and take in all kinds of baby birds. All your local Wildlife they will help.
That is great of you to adopt it. But.I am sorry to say that I have no idea how to raise it. Maybe you could talk to your local vet. Good luck to you!! You will make a great daddy.
Check-out "The Dove Page".
Also has helpful tips on raising doves.
http://www.dianejacky.com/pignlink.html. -
Let me tell you about my experince with dove that I found 3 months ago. !! I did the same that you did. I kept it, I got her a cage, food, water and even some toys.. for her cage.. I was very happy and my children too, untill one day flyed away.. and all we have left is the cage and smell of the bird in the room of my children. I wish if somebody will tell me what I can do for the smell that does not go away?
good luck with your bird and don't get to attach!!
do some reasearch about the bird on the internet and see what it eat and so on
If the bird really does look like a baby (full feathers, no "bulge" under its neck, pecking seed), it needs a special kind of food that you'll have to order from bird specialists. Pigeons produce "crop milk", made from cells sloughed off of their crop, to feed their young. It's their singular trademark.
Roudybush offers pigeon formulas. Here's the link. Keep it under a warm lamp (around 10 degrees above normal room temperature) in a humid environment. Here's a link: http://www.roudybush.com/index.cfm?b8c%3. The formula you may need is at the bottom.
Does it look like it needs to be hand fed? If so, it's very important to take lessons from a breeder or local wildlife authority, if you can. Aiming the pipette in the wrong direction will cause the bird to inhale its food and die. The crop is located on the bird's right side (aim to the left, if the bird is facing you). You must fill it with food slowly, no matter how hard the bird pumps for more, until the crop is full.
2 words: bacon, jalapenos
this is nice.I dont know but I had to tell you with all the chaos in the world today this was refreshing to read.warm snuggly bedding and a lot of strokes..with love.good luck.!
I think that you need to precook the bacon in the nuke then put the the little fella on the hot grill for 3 to 4 mn
You could just toss it in a corner, you pu$$y.
Baby doves and pigeons are rather hard to take care of. The best thing to do is to keep it warm for now and take it to wildlife rehabilitation center asap. If there isn't one in your area you could try a local humane society because they sometimes have a wildlife division, or you could try a vets office as well. The important thing is to take it to an expert becuase it has a small chance of survival with an inexperienced caretaker.
If the bird is in a younger stage it feeds on a substance know as "crop milk" that the mother produces. At this stage its stomach cannot digest whole seeds or solid food. When it gets a bit older the parent feed it whole seeds and whatever else directly from it's crop.
Unlike most other baby birds, they do not need to be fed every 15 minutes or half hour. Therefore, it might be okay without food if you get it to a rehabber very soon. If it seems lethargic, you could try giving it a bit of water.
Good luck and kudos for trying to save it!
call a vet, or a center for birds. Most generally, I think your supposed to leave wild things in their own habitat..but good thoughts to you, on your compassion!
Hmmm , but i have no idea how to raise it ! : (
So i would greatly apreciate some hlep !
Answers:
I have a white dove and 3 ringneck doves. Baby doves need to be tube fed. The parents open their beak and the baby doves put their whole head in while the parents bring up their food into their throats. If the baby dove has all of it's feathers it may be able to eat on it's own. Any wild bird seed or go to your pet store and get dove food. I usually call Wildlife Conservation and they will take the bird or recommend someone who will. If in AZ they have people who just volunteer and take in all kinds of baby birds. All your local Wildlife they will help.
That is great of you to adopt it. But.I am sorry to say that I have no idea how to raise it. Maybe you could talk to your local vet. Good luck to you!! You will make a great daddy.
Check-out "The Dove Page".
Also has helpful tips on raising doves.
http://www.dianejacky.com/pignlink.html. -
Let me tell you about my experince with dove that I found 3 months ago. !! I did the same that you did. I kept it, I got her a cage, food, water and even some toys.. for her cage.. I was very happy and my children too, untill one day flyed away.. and all we have left is the cage and smell of the bird in the room of my children. I wish if somebody will tell me what I can do for the smell that does not go away?
good luck with your bird and don't get to attach!!
do some reasearch about the bird on the internet and see what it eat and so on
If the bird really does look like a baby (full feathers, no "bulge" under its neck, pecking seed), it needs a special kind of food that you'll have to order from bird specialists. Pigeons produce "crop milk", made from cells sloughed off of their crop, to feed their young. It's their singular trademark.
Roudybush offers pigeon formulas. Here's the link. Keep it under a warm lamp (around 10 degrees above normal room temperature) in a humid environment. Here's a link: http://www.roudybush.com/index.cfm?b8c%3. The formula you may need is at the bottom.
Does it look like it needs to be hand fed? If so, it's very important to take lessons from a breeder or local wildlife authority, if you can. Aiming the pipette in the wrong direction will cause the bird to inhale its food and die. The crop is located on the bird's right side (aim to the left, if the bird is facing you). You must fill it with food slowly, no matter how hard the bird pumps for more, until the crop is full.
2 words: bacon, jalapenos
this is nice.I dont know but I had to tell you with all the chaos in the world today this was refreshing to read.warm snuggly bedding and a lot of strokes..with love.good luck.!
I think that you need to precook the bacon in the nuke then put the the little fella on the hot grill for 3 to 4 mn
You could just toss it in a corner, you pu$$y.
Baby doves and pigeons are rather hard to take care of. The best thing to do is to keep it warm for now and take it to wildlife rehabilitation center asap. If there isn't one in your area you could try a local humane society because they sometimes have a wildlife division, or you could try a vets office as well. The important thing is to take it to an expert becuase it has a small chance of survival with an inexperienced caretaker.
If the bird is in a younger stage it feeds on a substance know as "crop milk" that the mother produces. At this stage its stomach cannot digest whole seeds or solid food. When it gets a bit older the parent feed it whole seeds and whatever else directly from it's crop.
Unlike most other baby birds, they do not need to be fed every 15 minutes or half hour. Therefore, it might be okay without food if you get it to a rehabber very soon. If it seems lethargic, you could try giving it a bit of water.
Good luck and kudos for trying to save it!
call a vet, or a center for birds. Most generally, I think your supposed to leave wild things in their own habitat..but good thoughts to you, on your compassion!
Help I can't get my lovebird to stop laying eggs!?
She dosen't have a mate so the eggs are unfertilized and she will not stop laying them. The first started laying at the end of May and I took the eggs out about 9 weeks after that. Then a week after all the eggs were gone she layed 8 more eggs.
Answers:
I have a four year old lovebird with this problem. I will share the things I have done.
1) Reduce the number of hours of daylight she is exposed to. Daylight hours will stimulate the pineal gland in her brain and bring on egglaying hormones.. If you can, put her in a completely dark room for 12 hours a day, ideally. This is hard because if you work or go to school you'll hardly see the bird. But try to get her as much sleep as you can. It has to be dark, not just covering the cage in a room with a light on.
2) Save her old eggs. When she starts laying put several more old eggs in with the new one. This makes her think she has too many eggs already and is a biological cue to stop laying more.
3) I find with my lovie I have to let her sit on the eggs for two weeks. If I pull them earlier she just lays more. Experiment to find out how long your hen needs to sit to get this out of her system. When your hen starts to molt (you'll see lots of loose feathers lying around) you'll know she is done and it is a good time to try pulling the eggs.
Basically, I do all of the above to try to stop my lovebird from laying or at least limit the total number of eggs she lays. Egg laying is a real strain on your bird's body - it takes a lot of nutrients and calcium to make an egg and shell! Egglaying should therefore be discouraged in a pet bird that does not need to be laying. If all else fails, you can have a vet give injections of a drug called Lupron. I have heard it is very expensive, though, and not without side effects. In extreme cases they sometimes spay pet birds but this is a very risky procedure for a bird and not normally done. Make sure your bird has a good diet and a cuttlebone at all times for calcium. Even with my best efforts my lovie still lays about 1-2 eggs every two months. My vet feels this is not too excessive and does not require drug treatment but opinons on this topic differ. Good luck!
haha my friend has a female cockatiel and she lays eggs like crazy.. i dont think theres much you can do to stop it.. it's not really a bad thing
She's probably lonely :(
Take away her nestbox and remove alllll shreddable materials from her cage. Rearrange her entire cage, new perches, toys, food dishes etc. Limit her to 8-9 hours of daylight a day. Put her in a completely different location and/or cage altogether.
She's going to become seriously ill and possibly eggbound if you don't stop this chronic laying pattern. Avian vets have hormone shots for chronic layers which you might have to consider too
Good Luck
You can take your lovebird to your vet and get a hormone shot. Mine recommended 2 per year, early Spring and maybe again in the Fall. I lost my cockatiel due to egg binding. She was a single hen, but laid eggs all the time. I wish I would have known about the "birth control" shots. My bird laid 3 clutches before one egg became bound. Not only can eggs become bound, it's very hard on the bird to produce these eggs. Please take your lovebird to the vet and ask about the shots before it's too late.
Leave the eggs with her for a week or two.
In the wild if a predator eats the eggs, the birds lay more. If you leave them, it will "shut off" her instinct to constantly lay more.
WHAT i HAVE HEARD IS IF YOU TAKE OUT A NEST THEY WON'T LAY EGGS. iF YOUR BIRD IS LAYING WITH-OUT A NEST MAYBE SHE NEEDS A MATE. sOMETIMES THE NEED TO BE A PARENT IS VERY STRONG,EX: i ONCE HAD A GOLDEN LAB SHE WAS NEVER BRED.WELL WE FOUND A KITTEN %26 WAS HAND FEEDING IT TIL OUR DOG TOOK OVER. sHE HAD PRODUCED MILK! gOOD LUCK!
get her a mate to produce fertilized eggs then youl have more cute birds to take care of
Some people gave some great advice on this, but everyone is right!
Reduce the amount of sunlight, afterall spring is their natural mating season. 8 hours at most!
Rearrange the cage, and make sure theres no mirrors in the cage, they will bond with "themselves" sometimes if theres a mirror. Birds won't typically lay eggs when they're in a "new" environment because its a protective thing. This will at least buy you a little time.
Remove shredable things.
Move her to a different part of the room, preferrably a whole different room, it will take them that much longer to adjust!
Don't wait 9 WEEKS to remove them, God if you did wait that long I bet they stunk! The eggs should be removed no more than 24 HOURS AFTER BEING LAYED. Otherwise your bird will sit and try to hatch them, and they can become very agressive and depressed because their babies won't hatch.
Also changing her diet up a little bit wouldn't hurt. Anything new you can introduce her to will prolong her desire to lay eggs, just keep it new, I would recommend rearranging her cage monthly, Rotate certain toys in and out.
Thats the best I can tell ya, good luck!
Answers:
I have a four year old lovebird with this problem. I will share the things I have done.
1) Reduce the number of hours of daylight she is exposed to. Daylight hours will stimulate the pineal gland in her brain and bring on egglaying hormones.. If you can, put her in a completely dark room for 12 hours a day, ideally. This is hard because if you work or go to school you'll hardly see the bird. But try to get her as much sleep as you can. It has to be dark, not just covering the cage in a room with a light on.
2) Save her old eggs. When she starts laying put several more old eggs in with the new one. This makes her think she has too many eggs already and is a biological cue to stop laying more.
3) I find with my lovie I have to let her sit on the eggs for two weeks. If I pull them earlier she just lays more. Experiment to find out how long your hen needs to sit to get this out of her system. When your hen starts to molt (you'll see lots of loose feathers lying around) you'll know she is done and it is a good time to try pulling the eggs.
Basically, I do all of the above to try to stop my lovebird from laying or at least limit the total number of eggs she lays. Egg laying is a real strain on your bird's body - it takes a lot of nutrients and calcium to make an egg and shell! Egglaying should therefore be discouraged in a pet bird that does not need to be laying. If all else fails, you can have a vet give injections of a drug called Lupron. I have heard it is very expensive, though, and not without side effects. In extreme cases they sometimes spay pet birds but this is a very risky procedure for a bird and not normally done. Make sure your bird has a good diet and a cuttlebone at all times for calcium. Even with my best efforts my lovie still lays about 1-2 eggs every two months. My vet feels this is not too excessive and does not require drug treatment but opinons on this topic differ. Good luck!
haha my friend has a female cockatiel and she lays eggs like crazy.. i dont think theres much you can do to stop it.. it's not really a bad thing
She's probably lonely :(
Take away her nestbox and remove alllll shreddable materials from her cage. Rearrange her entire cage, new perches, toys, food dishes etc. Limit her to 8-9 hours of daylight a day. Put her in a completely different location and/or cage altogether.
She's going to become seriously ill and possibly eggbound if you don't stop this chronic laying pattern. Avian vets have hormone shots for chronic layers which you might have to consider too
Good Luck
You can take your lovebird to your vet and get a hormone shot. Mine recommended 2 per year, early Spring and maybe again in the Fall. I lost my cockatiel due to egg binding. She was a single hen, but laid eggs all the time. I wish I would have known about the "birth control" shots. My bird laid 3 clutches before one egg became bound. Not only can eggs become bound, it's very hard on the bird to produce these eggs. Please take your lovebird to the vet and ask about the shots before it's too late.
Leave the eggs with her for a week or two.
In the wild if a predator eats the eggs, the birds lay more. If you leave them, it will "shut off" her instinct to constantly lay more.
WHAT i HAVE HEARD IS IF YOU TAKE OUT A NEST THEY WON'T LAY EGGS. iF YOUR BIRD IS LAYING WITH-OUT A NEST MAYBE SHE NEEDS A MATE. sOMETIMES THE NEED TO BE A PARENT IS VERY STRONG,EX: i ONCE HAD A GOLDEN LAB SHE WAS NEVER BRED.WELL WE FOUND A KITTEN %26 WAS HAND FEEDING IT TIL OUR DOG TOOK OVER. sHE HAD PRODUCED MILK! gOOD LUCK!
get her a mate to produce fertilized eggs then youl have more cute birds to take care of
Some people gave some great advice on this, but everyone is right!
Reduce the amount of sunlight, afterall spring is their natural mating season. 8 hours at most!
Rearrange the cage, and make sure theres no mirrors in the cage, they will bond with "themselves" sometimes if theres a mirror. Birds won't typically lay eggs when they're in a "new" environment because its a protective thing. This will at least buy you a little time.
Remove shredable things.
Move her to a different part of the room, preferrably a whole different room, it will take them that much longer to adjust!
Don't wait 9 WEEKS to remove them, God if you did wait that long I bet they stunk! The eggs should be removed no more than 24 HOURS AFTER BEING LAYED. Otherwise your bird will sit and try to hatch them, and they can become very agressive and depressed because their babies won't hatch.
Also changing her diet up a little bit wouldn't hurt. Anything new you can introduce her to will prolong her desire to lay eggs, just keep it new, I would recommend rearranging her cage monthly, Rotate certain toys in and out.
Thats the best I can tell ya, good luck!
help found racing pigeon?
I Have Found A Racing pigeon how do i contact the owners
Answers:
At the police station they will know who to contact. Some animal organization who takes care of found animals.
:)
Really? I'm wondering how on earth you managed that. It should have a little tag on it's leg with all the details on.
at their address.
The ring on the pigeon's leg has a unique number. Contact the RSCPA who will put you in touch with a local racing pigeon club. The pigeon fanciers will take the pigeon from you and will ensure that it is returned to it's owner by tracing the number. They have a network and do this sort of thing all the time.
When I found one,I was told that the owner wouln't WANT it back! Makes sense,if it couldn't/wouldn't find it's way "home",it wasn't any good!
DONT GIVE IT BACK
if a racing pigeon takes to long to return or gets lost, the owner will break its neck!
harsh but true!
surly if you let it go it will find it's own way home?
Tired pigeons need water,very important.Feed with small seed. Then ring the Royal Racing Pigeon Association with the number that is on the birds leg. 01452 713529. They will contact the owner,who is obliged by law to collect the pigeon.If you have a look on the feathers on its wing,there may be an indelible name and address there.Responsible owners are very grateful to get their birds back as they are well loved. You are very kind to take the time and trouble to help this little bird.
Type in Pigeon Fanciers and search. I found a racing pigeon and got onto the Federation and they came back with the name and telephone number of the owner. If you can approach the bird try to get its registration details. I was told that quite often a bird gets off course and lands and stays for up to two weeks in its adoptive home then takes off to return to its owner.
Anything to help a bird.
http://pigeons.biz/pigeons/index.html.
Click the link on top that goes to "resources". Click on "lost and found" on the left. There will be information on how to read the band in this site.
You may also want to ask specifically if the owner will accept the bird. Many times if a racer gets lost, the owner doesn't want it back and would sooner kill it than take it in.
They make outstanding pets if you're interested and the above Web site has plenty of information on how to properly care for one.
report it
Check the phone book for a number for a Homing Pigeon Union, give them a call and they'll do all the work for you! It's very rewarding knowing you've helped a pigeon fancier get back a bird they thought was lost.
Answers:
At the police station they will know who to contact. Some animal organization who takes care of found animals.
:)
Really? I'm wondering how on earth you managed that. It should have a little tag on it's leg with all the details on.
at their address.
The ring on the pigeon's leg has a unique number. Contact the RSCPA who will put you in touch with a local racing pigeon club. The pigeon fanciers will take the pigeon from you and will ensure that it is returned to it's owner by tracing the number. They have a network and do this sort of thing all the time.
When I found one,I was told that the owner wouln't WANT it back! Makes sense,if it couldn't/wouldn't find it's way "home",it wasn't any good!
DONT GIVE IT BACK
if a racing pigeon takes to long to return or gets lost, the owner will break its neck!
harsh but true!
surly if you let it go it will find it's own way home?
Tired pigeons need water,very important.Feed with small seed. Then ring the Royal Racing Pigeon Association with the number that is on the birds leg. 01452 713529. They will contact the owner,who is obliged by law to collect the pigeon.If you have a look on the feathers on its wing,there may be an indelible name and address there.Responsible owners are very grateful to get their birds back as they are well loved. You are very kind to take the time and trouble to help this little bird.
Type in Pigeon Fanciers and search. I found a racing pigeon and got onto the Federation and they came back with the name and telephone number of the owner. If you can approach the bird try to get its registration details. I was told that quite often a bird gets off course and lands and stays for up to two weeks in its adoptive home then takes off to return to its owner.
Anything to help a bird.
http://pigeons.biz/pigeons/index.html.
Click the link on top that goes to "resources". Click on "lost and found" on the left. There will be information on how to read the band in this site.
You may also want to ask specifically if the owner will accept the bird. Many times if a racer gets lost, the owner doesn't want it back and would sooner kill it than take it in.
They make outstanding pets if you're interested and the above Web site has plenty of information on how to properly care for one.
report it
Check the phone book for a number for a Homing Pigeon Union, give them a call and they'll do all the work for you! It's very rewarding knowing you've helped a pigeon fancier get back a bird they thought was lost.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
